from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven both from Austria, have been out in Bishop since around December 12 and have already completed some impressive ascents. Of particular note was Katha's ascent of This Side of Paradise (v10), the mammoth highball prow at the Bardini Boulders, and Jorg's ascent of Ambrosia at the Peabodies. I met these guys out in Zillertal, Austria a few years back when Lisa Rands presented a video by Sender Films in which she climbs This Side of Paradise . It was the incredible beauty
published: 4 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
This news has been covered elsewhere I know, but I want to give props to Alex Biale for his ascent of Rastaman Vibration (v12) on the Grandpa Peabody on December 15. It is interesting to note that, although this line was first climbed by Jared Roth back in 2002, it had never before been repeated! Indeed, Rastaman Vibration begins with one of the hardest moves at the 'Milks, a big move from a miserable pinch to gain a tiny right-hand crimp, feet swinging. Most people now know this move from images or video
published: 4 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
One of the key holds for many of the climbs on the roof of the Beef Cave in the Ice Caves at the Sad Boulders has broken. The break, which happened at the end of November, was of the good finger-hold that was at the right end of the rail that Beautiful Gecko follows, a hold that also was important for lines Aquatic Hitchhiker , Feels Like a Barnacle , In the Aquarium and Windchill . While all these lines will be harder now, this break will probably have the most impact on Beautiful Gecko . Anyone who has
published: 4 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
The handsome Canadian Sonnie Trotter, had a good past couple days of climbing in the buttermilks. Yesterday he did Ambrosia (V11) the 45 foot Kevin Jorgeson highball/freesolo on the west face of grandpa peabody boulder. Sonnie, as with all the others to have climbed the line used a different start, Sonnie's start is a mixture of Isaac Calderio's (3rd ascent of the line) and the original beta. Sonnie said although feeling a bit shaky at the hueco, 25 feet up, said the the upper half felt better than it had
published: 5 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Dan Beall has just done what is likely the 3rd ascent of the newest hard link up on the Grandma Peabody boulder, Direct North (V14). The line climbs Direction (V13) to a marginal rest into the tall and insecure Magnetic North (V8 or 9). Below is a link to a clip of Dan falling off the last move on his last try before the send. A week or so prior to his Direct North ascent Dan dispatched, as Zlu Haller says "best line in the world?'', Evilution Direct (V11). Congrats Dan and keep on crushing! ...
published: 5 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
The Fall Highball event organized by the American Alpine Club is once again coming to Bishop with famed stonemaster, climbing pioneer, and raconteur extraordinaire John Long coming to speak at the Mill Creek Station on Saturday night, 7pm. This will be a show worth seeing. The event is coordinated to coincide with the Access Fund's Adopt-a-crag day, and so, in partnership with the Inyo National Forest and the group Friends of the Inyo, there will also be a Buttermilk clean-up on Saturday morning beginning
published: 6 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Andrew Schurr of the group Friends of the Inyo wrote to me recently about a proposal from the Forest Service to construct one or two permanent pit toilets with wheelchair accessible paths adjacent to the Buttermilk boulders. The proposal mentions two locations: the parking/turn-around at the Birthday Boulders, and the gravel pit just before the Peabody Boulders on the right hand side of Buttermilk Road. This latter is an old borrow pit that has become a large parking pullout at the base of an old disused
published: 10 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Just received this note from an inspired Zack Parke. Read on as he explains. "About a month ago I came across this video on Black Diamonds' website of Kevin Jorgeson in the Buttermilks. In it, among other sweet lines, Kevin does what could be only the second ever ascent of the Transporter Room on the Grandpa Peabody boulder. After watching that video I got pretty psyched about doing this climb, now that I know where it goes and some of the beta. I'd planned a trip out to the Buttermilks for last week, and
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Longtime friend of Bishop Bouldering, Isaac Caldiero , has completed his guidebook to Joe's Valley, Utah. He's done an awesome job of the guide, updating all the known info, and finally getting the word out on a slew of development there from the last few years. More info at the Joe's Valley Guidebook website .
published: 12 months ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
It's great to see that even though I might not be climbing much right now, life still goes on as usual out at the Buttermilks! In early April, local Bishop RN and ER manager Andrew Stevens even added a sweet new line to "The North Boulder," which might better be described as the "East Side Story Boulder," after the proud highball by that name on its south face (see page 236 in the guide 2nd ed). Andrew's likely first ascent climbs a prow-like line on the boulder's northwest corner. Buttermilks FA, ...
published: about 1 year ago
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