from Kelly Cordes
What’s in the Internet water these days? People are being nice, even in forums. ‘Tis the season, I suppose. • Someone started a random thread on Mountain Project thanking Matt Samet: “Aside from replacing a boatload of bolts for the ARI, putting up a bunch of routes, and writing a lot of funny articles over the years, [...]
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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35 views
from Kelly Cordes
Self-serving announcement: You can watch COLD, the climbing film that won the GFP at Banff, for free tonight, online. It’s 19-minutes long, raw, dark, rated R, and my first writing for film (though Cory Richards, climber and videographer, and Anson Fogel, director and editor, did the heavy lifting for sure). Our idea was to tell [...]
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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41 views
from Kelly Cordes
Random recent thoughts and notes: • Happy Holidays. “Black Friday” repulses me. Better yet for such days: make a personal statement and don’t buy a goddamned thing. I’ve said it before, in a Dirtbag Diaries podcast about my years of working dead-end jobs and clashing with a heinously materialistic boss: “Shopping” as a stand-alone endeavor [...]
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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27 views
from Kelly Cordes
Holassalamualaikum! (Thats my fallback foreign language, the hola part, mixed with one of the three Urdu words I know Spanglishstani?) Im finishing-up seven weeks in Pakistan, on what started as a climbing trip but became something more. A bunch of stories floating through ol duders head for once I get around to sharing them. [...]
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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17 views
from Kelly Cordes
OK, OK, we all know the story by now, Great Trango, blahblah, no water, blahblah Disaster Style yadda yadda. Young climber at the crag: “Hey old man – nice haircut, by the way – you happen to know what the rack is for this pitch?” Old man (me): “Well, I seem to recall…I seem to [...]
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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59 views
from Kelly Cordes
When it comes to safety and systems, shouldn’t we think as objectively as possible? I think so, and I try. I suppose there’s “that one time when…” fear that can affect our thinking, or a “that looks sketchy!” impulse that can override rational thought. But exceptions and extreme examples shouldn’t cloud our thinking with climbing [...]
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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66 views
from Kelly Cordes
On June 15 we shipped the AAJ to the printer and I hopped a plane to Europe. I’d been working my ass off for far longer than I want – like months – which left me wondering: “How the fuck do people work like this all year round? And why? No wonder so many seem [...]
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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56 views
from Kelly Cordes
Ever since writing my big exposé on the sordid underbelly of alpinism (“I Just Want to Be Held”), I’ve been inundated with requests. No, not requests for climbing partners. Rather, terrified requests from doe-eyed young alpinists: “But…how can I finish that big route before dark? I don’t want to be the big spoon. I don’t [...]
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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63 views
from Kelly Cordes
Quick one – Ive been meaning to post this. Just a podcast version of what I wrote on TCL (got a shitton of back-and-forth in the comments and on Facebook, which was especially cool since the discussion remained mostly civil and thoughtful), about the Greg Mortenson and Central Asia Institute scandal. I think this topic [...]
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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65 views
from Kelly Cordes
I had a proposition. I’d readied my pitch to the surgeons at the Steadman Clinic in Vail, where, by the way, I’ve received hands-down the best medical treatment in my storied surgical career, from the people in the lobby to the nurses and assistants to the surgeons. Don’t know how they do it, but they [...]
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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38 views
