from Outdoor Habit
Jamie Emerson recently had an interesting post on steroids and climbing and Andrew Bisharat (the editor of RI ) recently posted a related article called " Climbers Who Cheat " discussing the advantage in climbing given by being thin. I just couldn't bite my tongue and hold off on responding to this most recent article. Since the R&I site doesn't allow comments, here are my thoughts. First, I think Jamie's article on steroids is good mainly for asking questions about steroid use in climbing in a public ...
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Outdoor Habit
A lot has happened since my last post. As most of you know, my residence in Boulder has come to an end and I've moved to Gainesville, FL. Needless to say, things are a bit different here. The people are larger, the food is greasier and the landscape is flatter. At least there's a climbing gym... The Gainesville Rock Gym, vertical toproping, overhang/"lead" wall in the back And that's what I want to talk about today: the merits and failings of the Gainesville Rock Gym . I've been in Gainesville for about
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Outdoor Habit
Over the past week I've spent 3 quick(ish) sessions up on Flagstaff, mainly since it's only about 15 minutes from my apartment, super convenient. My first visit last week was spent repeating some moderates , but I didn't really get on anything too hard. Then, a few days ago I went back and climbed a few harder problems which you can see in the video below. Flagstaff 2 from Doug Lipinski on Vimeo . For anyone that's wondering, Hagan's Wall climbs just as well now as it did before breaking in January. The
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
We had some seriously awesome spring-like weather today and I took advantage with a quick midday circuit up on Flagstaff. Here's a short video of several of my favorite moderates on the mountain. Flagstaff Moderates from Doug Lipinski on Vimeo . I had fun putting this quick edit together and I'd like to get some more of these videos up, but I only have a 6 year old point and shoot camera and a memory card that holds 4.5 minutes of crappy video. Add that to the wish list I guess... *** For more, visit my
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
I went back to Eldorado Canyon yesterday with Brock, Paul and Josh S. to get in some more bouldering before the forecast takes a turn for the worse today. We had perfect weather for hard climbing and it was probably right around freezing with a very light breeze the whole time we were in the canyon. We warmed up at the Milton boulder and gave anywhere from a few (me) to a great many (Brock) tries on Milton (V4). Paul came soooo close on his flash go and even closer a few times later as well, Josh worked
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
This winter has been very productive for me as far as finishing up some awesome bouldering projects around the front range. First up was Valhalla (V7) on Flagstaff. This is a very fun, very steep problem with a couple sharp crimps and a last move that spit me off time and again on link. I was able to do the high start (Valkyrie, V5) in one session, but the last move is just hard enough to be the redpoint crux for me. After falling there about 8-10 seperate times over multiple sessions, I went back on a ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
A winter send of The Turning Point, V8 from Doug Lipinski on Vimeo . I'm not usually a big fan of the cold, and before this winter I'd never spent much time bouldering in sub 50 degree temperatures. As it turns out, I was missing a lot. Even here in Boulder, where January temperatures can reach the mid 60s, 35-45 degrees truly means sending temperatures. The low humidity and cold temps mean no sweaty hands and great friction, but the cold brings other challenges. With that in mind, I present an outline of
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
Nothing too exciting to update, but I thought I'd post a quick run down of what I've been up to over the past few weeks. Mostly, I've been bouldering a lot and starting some new projects. A few weeks ago, Brock and I headed up to the Satellite Boulders in the Flatirons for a night session and to get on The Turning Point (V8). We warmed up as the temps cooled off a bit and eventually worked out all the moves on this awesome problem. I went back up there on Sunday to see if I could make any more progress on
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
One of the best things about the Boulder area is the proximity to good rock. You can easily climb at a huge number of different areas after work and good options exist for single or multipitch trad, bouldering and sport. However, when it's 95 degrees out it's just not fun to go climbing. To get around this, Brock and I headed up to the Satellite Boulders last night. Temps were pretty close to perfect around 11p with low humidity and a great breeze to keep the skin dry. Needless to say, there were no crowds
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Outdoor Habit
Looking back on my first post on bouldering in Chaos Canyon, lack of enthusiasm for the area was clearly evident. Well, yesterday I was back up there with a few others and, needless to say, I've warmed up to the area quite a bit. Despite the hour plus drive and decently long hike, this area just draws you in. As with anywhere, it took a little while to get used to the rock, but I think I mostly underestimated myself and the quality of the bouldering. We left Boulder a bit after 8am, lucked into a great ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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68 views
