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West Coast Mountain Guides

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Alan Kimber's blog of Scottish climbing conditions

Monitored since:: over 3 years ago
Last checked at:: 4 months ago

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Slip Slop

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
Slip Slop, big thaw, Beinn, day, forecast, return, Tomorrow, moment, yesterday, weather

A big thaw at the moment, but looks like a return to colder weather, especially next week. Tomorrow also looks okay just now. Today started very wet and windy, but the forecast proved okay and now the day is clearing and drier. The photo taken yesterday shows how much snow is still lying on Beinn a'Chaorainn - East Ridge.

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 78 views

Beinn Udlaidh

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
White Caterpillar, Beinn Udlaidh, WEDNESDAY, DAVE G, PHOTO OF THE FIRST, WESTERN CLIFFS, UNRELENTING 150FT CLIMB, WESTERN EDGE, FABULOUS SUNNY DAY, EDDIE WALTHAM

HELLO ALAN. LOTS GOING ON IT SEEMS. DAVE G AND I TOOK A TRIP BACK UP BEINN UDLAIDH ON WEDNESDAY. A FABULOUS SUNNY DAY, AND -5 AT THE CAR PARK WHEN WE ARRIVED. MIXED REPORTS ABOUT THE HILL BUT STILL LOTS THERE. THE SLOPE ABOVE THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE CRAG STILL HAD A DANGEROUS LOOKING BUILD UP HANGING OVER THE ROUTES, AND WE AVOIDED THIS. CLIMBED 'WHITE CATERPILLAR', THEN, A VERY STEEP GRADE 4 IN THE MIDDLE SECTION CALLED 'ANTIQUES ROADSHOW'. THIS WAS WELL BUILT UP WITH ICE AND GAVE AN UNRELENTING 150FT ...

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 40 views

Lost Valley

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
Lost Valley, IV,4, two good pitches, end of tomorrow, Lost Valley Minor Buttress, winter guide book, Central Scoop, crowds today, III. Freezing level, Duncan Francis Thanks Duncan

Alan, Escaped the crowds today up on Lost Valley Minor Buttress; three teams did Chimney Route, which gave two good pitches of IV,4 with ice just where it was needed, Central Scoop at IV,4 and Right Edge, which was easier than the guidebook at III. Freezing level was just about at the base of the crag at 900m, which was lucky, as everything below was dripping. Doubt it there will be much up there by the end of tomorrow.... Duncan Francis Thanks Duncan. Have you got any crag shots of this area for a winter

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 41 views

Nevis Action

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
Gully, Eastern Traverse today, Minus One Gully, Great Tower, Minus Two Gully, action on Orion, Ben Nevis this winter, Great Tower today, Nevis Action, rifle shots

Minus One Gully is reported as 'Skinny' and Minus Two Gully as 'Fat' Loads of action on Orion - Point Five -Hadrian's - Sickle - Zero - Observatory Buttress - Tower Ridge. Tower Gap 'fixed' belay 'tat'. Eastern Traverse today, New steps. Great Tower today. Allt a'Mhuilinn Red Deer Stag. These beast appear to be coping well with us climbers. Has anyone heard rifle shots around Ben Nevis this winter?

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 32 views

Lost Crampons

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
CIC hut on Tuesday, Ben Nevis car park, grey crampon bag, Charlet Moser crampons, Lost Crampons, track down, CIC hut, track, Tuesday, pack

Hi Alan I am missing a pair of Charlet Moser crampons which were in a grey crampon bag. I last had them leaving the CIC hut on Tuesday, they were strapped to the outside of my pack and may have fallen off on the track down or I could have left them at the Ben Nevis car park laying on the ground. If anybody comes across them you can contact me at ronankkeane@eircom.net many thanks Ronan Keane

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 30 views

This week on Ben Nevis

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
Orion Direct, Vanishing, Green Gully, Tony, hut, Tony Farrell Thanks guys, week on Ben Nevis, Ronan Keane, CIC hut on Sunday, couple of classic lines

Hi Alan, Many thanks for letting us use your booking spaces in the CIC hut on Sunday and Monday night. We put the opportunity to good use and bagged a couple of classic lines in perfect conditions. I believe Tony is still trying to squeeze a few more in before he returns to Ireland on Sunday. attached are a few memorable shots on Vanishing gully, Orion Direct and Green Gully. Many thanks again Ronan Keane and Tony Farrell Thanks guys. If anyone is interested I still have spaces at the hut for the week ...

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 28 views

Good conditions on Nevis

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
good conditions, Nevis, full refund, Minus One, Plenty of good climbing, missed bargains, Two Gullies, current cold weather, Good conditions on Nevis, space in The Bunkhouse

Reports of good conditions on Ben Nevis with Minus One and Two Gullies receiving ascents. Anything on the East Face of Aonach Mor that catches the sun is falling apart. Routes such as Left Twin will remain good in the shadow for some time to come. Plenty of good climbing at many locations. Lots of space in The Bunkhouse and also a full refund OR good rock climbing alternatives on winter climbing courses in April if the current cold weather AND good conditions do not continue. Not to be missed bargains!!!

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 42 views

Hard frost tonight

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
Lost Valley, Fiacaill Buttress, Glen Coe, Coire, headwall of Coire, plateau area, superb clear sunny day, large party, Hard frost tonight, one intrepid individual

Hi Alan Please find attached a few pics from our travels this past week – based in Glencoe and Aviemore. Thursday was a superb clear sunny day - we climbed Stob Coire nan Lochain from the Lost Valley – fabulous views. We also saw a “large-format” oil painter at work just down from the Glen Etive road turning (that is dedication for you)! Today we have been up on the Cairngorm Plateau – lots of people around – ski tourers, snow boarders, kite-boarders, climbers and walkers – all having a great

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 38 views

Clipper Leashes

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
leashes, Clipper Leashes, Grivel, axes, Alp Wing, shaft, Grivel Alp Wing, things, horn, advice

Can anyone help by commenting on this question below? Hi I'm looking for some advice - I've been on a couple of courses with you and would appreciate the experience you bring to this kind of thing. I use a pair of Grivel Alp Wing axes, they are not state of the art but neither am I. Scottish 4 is about my leading ability but I find myself staggering up things a bit harder every now and then, though not by design. I like the axes so do not want to buy others if I can avoid it - but will if that's what's ...

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 68 views

Good Climbing

from West Coast Mountain Guides

Keywords:
frosty night forecast, bunkhouse this week, slight thaw, settled weather, bunkhouse, cold night, Good Climbing, week, space, yesterday

The slight thaw was replaced by a cold night. These photos are from yesterday. With a very clear and frosty night forecast, plus settled weather, the week ahead should be very good for climbing. We have plenty of space at the bunkhouse this week.

published: over 2 years ago | downloaded: over 2 years ago | 38 views

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