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My adventures with bioinformatics, biology, climbing, running, hacking, music, photography, travel and more...
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Standhardt’s South Face At A Snail’s Pace

Image from Google Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour push from the Norwegos hut. Cerro Standhardt is named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt, who documented Patagonias mountains and people in [...]


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistans Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a [...]


Dempster, Kennedy Nab Charakusa FA

Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy recently made the first ascent of Pakistans Hassan Peak (6300m). Hassan Peak is located in Pakistans Charakusa Valley just north of K6. The pair climbed the peak via its previously attempted west face overcoming difficulties of WI5, M5 on their two day ascent Taken from: Alpinist Magazine.


Five Kilometers of Climbing in Greenland

Image from Google A Swiss-Bavarian group of climbers established over 5000 meters of climbing in ten new routes in Southern Greenland this August on the island of Quvnerit. The group consisted of Caroline Morel, Andres Lietha, Michi Wyser, Tom Holzhauser, Michi Tresch and Toni Lamprecht. Southern Greenland offers the potential for many more first ascents; Lamprecht compared the [...]


A View From A Hole

Image from Google Octavio and I got another night of the best technical death metal worldwide. Decapitated came back to Mexico City for their 2nd show ever and they didnt disappoint as always. The act took place at Multiforo Cultural Alicia, which got really crowded. Two Mexican bands opened the show. Decapitateds setlist was short but extremely powerful. [...]


Miércoles de Ceniza

After I dont know how many years, Caifanes got reunited and started touring around the country, delighting all-time fans with their now-classic songs. Last night, Octavio, María Ana, Viridiana and I attended one of the many concerts from their current tour. It was a really great show which encompassed almost every song of their 4 [...]


Two Big New Routes in Pakistan

Image from Google A Slovenian team climbed a major new route on K7 West in Pakistans Charakusa Valley this summer, while an American duo made the first ascent of a 6,540-meter (21,457) peak in the valley. Slovenians Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar climbed the second route to the summit of K7 West (6,934m/22,749), making only the third ascent [...]


Reconstruction

So its been a week that I returned from Utah, after accomplishing my goal of running 3 hard mountain ultramarathons in a little less than a month. Getting my knees thrashed while running the Bear 100 last week was the definitive call to stop doing ultras for a couple of months at least My right [...]


New Route on Trango Tower

Image from Google A Russian expedition has climbed the first mostly independent new route on Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) in many years. The four-man team spent 10 days climbing a 1,000-meter line up the rarely visited northwest face of the 6,239-meter (20,469-foot) spire in the Baltoro region of Pakistan Taken from: Climbing Magazine.


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakorams Saser Kangri II (7518m), the worlds second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunchang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine [...]