from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
published: 5 months ago
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from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
John and our hire car Over the last two weeks I have been out in Spain with a strong team from Scotland, England, Ireland and Wales!! Over the two weeks we tried out as many different venues in the North East of Spain. First we visited Terradets which compiled of stacks and stacks of amazing tufa climbing. It took a while to adjust to this style of climbing, it provided us all with many challenges. I didn't want to red point any routes, I just wanted to onsight everything I tried. Unfortunately I'm not ...
published: 5 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
This is the end my friends. The final trip report from Upskill 2011 Kalymnos climbing camps. This'll be a good-un though, so read on for your last little hit of Kalymnos for the year. ODYSSEY A bit of a fave, you've probably gathered by now. Day nine of climbing and there were some tired bodies! But only two days of climbing left, so time to pull out all the stops and give it heaps! Besides, it had to be Odyssey, as Bo refused to leave the island without Atena 6b+ in her satchel. We headed up to the left
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which
published: 6 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
2009 was our first foray to the unknown delights of Vietnam and its limestone towers in Ha Long Bay. (You can find our 2009 trip reports and video here ). We had a stack of fun and I was particularly impressed by one limestone tower which had just two routes ( The Face 7b+ and License to Climb 7b). It was the most impressive and striking towers I'd seen in a bay which has over 2,000 limestone towers. After we left, I kept in the back of my mind the dream of establishing an extension to License to Climb ...
published: 7 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Keywords:
Quvnerit,
5.10b,
6a+,
Quvnerit Island,
greenland,
island,
pitches,
routes,
Nanortalik,
pitches),1
South Greenland 2011, Swiss-Bavarian Climbing Expedition to Quvnerit Island The South of Greenland offers an incredible wealth of technical rock climbing on big granite faces, some of them directly over the ocean. Tasermiut Fjord has seen most of the climbing activity of the last decades, but some climbers have ventured further south to climb on the more remote islands and fjords around the Inuit settlement of Aappilattoq. Huge routes have gone up in the Torssukatak Fjord, on Pamiagdluk Island and on other
published: 7 months ago
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from James Pearson
Since Canada I have been in real adventure mode; exploring, questing, learning, suffering, progressing and resting, usually in the middle of the mountains, with no phone or internet. The reason - Joy Division, a 20 pitch route on the Qualido wall, Val Di Mello. The result – sore muscles, sorer skin, and a fast track course in Big wall bumbling. A Brief History of the route... Climbing on Qualido dates back to 1978, and as expected, a whole host of mixed (aid and free) routes appeared over the next
published: 9 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-07-01 Climbers are an obsessed type of people. Wed climb every day if we could. Having a family pushes me into doing stuff that maybe I wouldnt otherwise do, like holidays to places where there is no climbing. This is no bad thing. There is way more to life than climbing, and actually Id probably be rather sad if at the end of my days all I can see over my years is a load of crimps and slopers. Anyway, we need the odd rest too. So I was more than pleased to be ...
published: 10 months ago
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from James Pearson
Hola mi Amigos, My god it feels good to lie down. After 6 hours on the road, preceded by many days of cold, hard climbing and too little sleep, I am pooped (to put it politely). We left Francia on Monday for the (slightly) warmer climate of Spain and the plentiful, painful pockets of Margalef. The first day was dank and cold, but first day psyche dragged Caro and I out of the refugi at around 11am to a deserted Laboratory , where we began the ongoing battle against numb fingers. Warming up was a relative
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2010-12-09 December in Britain can be dreary! With flights at a mere 100 and a forecast of a sunny 20 degrees Gran Canaria looked appealing. A family holiday with a beach priority but enough rock to keep insanity at bay. We left Sheffield just as the snows began, roads already closing down and setting us on edge with a close call journey to the airport. Little did we know our flight out would be one of the last before the whole of the UK turned white. The internet can be a ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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