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Burkett Needle East Arete

American climbers John Frieh, Zac West and Davie Burdick claimed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8500-foot tower west of Mount Burkett on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. The expedition was funded by the Copp Dash Inspire Award and the Mazamas Climbing Club. The trio's new route, Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 AI3 M5), is the sixth ascent of the peak. The Burkett Needle was first climbed in 1964 by Layton Kor and Dan Davis on the north buttress. The mountain was not summited for a


Peak of Summer, it is cool in AK!

Image from Google We are enjoying the peak of summer here before the berries ripen, the fireweed blossoms reach the tops of the stalks and the leaves start to turn yellow. It all happens so fast! The strawberries are ripe (home grown) and blueberries (wild) are just starting to ripen. Temps are cool, especially at night. Part of the AMS Family, enjoying a beautiful, warm day in Talkeetna. Pictured are: Lisle, Caitlin, Colby, Rob Laura. Looking to escape the heat index ? Come to Alaska! Grab some lemonade and check out these


Alaskan Killed on Denali

Image from Google B rian Young, in what marks the fifth death of the season on Denali, passed away at high camp (17,200') in the morning of June 10. Young, a 52-year-old from Kodiak, AK, had just completed a successful 20-hour push for Denali's summit and was preparing for bed when he stopped breathing. His tent mates quickly called for the aid of a nearby NPS mountaineering patrol, but Young was unable to be resuscitated. At 11:00 p.m., he was pronounced dead by a NPS volunteer physician's assistant. Due to inclement ...


Eric Hjorleifson

Image from Google Born and raised into a family where seasonal employment and a place to live revolved around skiing and snow conditions, Arc'teryx big mountain specialist Eric Hjorleifson can't actually recall his first day on skis. Raised in the shadowy spine of the Rocky Mountains which rise dramatically from his Canmore, AB, home, "Hoji"s early days were spent on the rope tow at Mount Norquay in Banff National Park. Eric and his brother Steve honed their skills for eight years in the Nancy Greene and provincial ski ...


Nick and Alex Head South

Image from Google Butterball (sad dog on right) and the rest of the AMS staff said goodbye to Guides Alex Stroud (on left) and Nick D'Alessio this afternoon. Alex is headed to Montana, Utah, Yosemite, etc. for climbing, climbing and climbing. Nick is visiting family in New Hampshire before returning to Girdwood, AK for a winter of skiing. It was great having them here this summer but they'll be back and ready for the Alaska Range next Spring. Operations Manager Rob Gowler snuck out of town a couple of days ago...I didn't


FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #8

Image from Google The final take away installment of the FREE RANGE TURKEY dispatches. Thanks for following!Produced by: camp4collectiveAdditional Imagery: boone speedSONG Almost FamiliarALBUM Taking Up Your Precious TimeARTIST Pretty Lights Currently Cedar is in Yosemite going for a free ascent of Golden Gate on El Cap and I'm headed up to AK for another go at the Tooth Traverse in the Ruth Gorge....stay tuned..


Happy March! Ice & Rock Events in AK!

Image from Google It's feeling really "springy" here! Coming up soon: Alaska Ice Fest - March 5-7, Anchorage Hunter Creek, AK HOWL Rock Climbing Competition - March 6, Homer, AK Oosik Classic Ski Race - March 20, Talkeetna, AK 2010 AMS Current Availability Report: Wilderness First Responder Course March 6-14: FULL WFR Re-certification March 20-22: FULL March 27-29: 4 spaces available Denali, West Buttress April 27-May 17: 2 spaces available May 3- 23: 1 space available May 10-30: FULL (waitlist) May 17-June 6: FULL ...


The Weather is changing

Image from Google The summit on Vorlich just before Sunrise on Saturday captured here by Ken Christie. A cracking morning and what's better is that nothing hurt! I'm ready for Winter now. Hope you like the pics. Thanks Ken. Unfortunately the stella autumn weather is about to cave in this week with storms, rain and much wind:( Looking forward to Orion Direct sometime. (AK)


Dream of White Horses

Image from Google Hi Alan Went over to Angelsey on Friday and done which MUST be one of the best routes in the UK being A Dream of White Horses. we had minimal wind and bright sun all afternoon and the route and crag ! to ourselves whilst most of north wales appeared wet and windy so its always worthy of a look ! The route will live long in the memory :O) Jason Wood esquire (climbed with Martin Race and Fraser Campbell) Thanks Jason. Good pictures of one of the countries best rock climbs. Well done, the three of you. AK


Carnmore and Flowers

Image from Google Alan, Just finishing a fantastic two weeks in Skye, Carnmore, Glencoe and Glen Nevis. Belay on Gob attached. It is that time of year again; wonder if anyone might know what this flower is? Found both at Carnmore and on the Buachaille Etive Beag... I thought that it was Mountain Avens, but the colour and leaves are wrong. Duncan Thanks Duncan. Report and good pictures appreciated as usual. AK