from Mountains and Water
About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
The North Face of the Matterhorn witnessed a great, fast ascent yesterday at the hands of 23-year-old Patrick Aufdenblatten and 26-year-old Michi Lerjen-Demjen, who climbed the face in 7 hours and 14 minutes via the route established by Walter Bonatti alone and in winter during his extraordinary and historical ordeal from 18 to 22 February 1965. The two Swiss alpinists form a formidable team and have climbed together from Yosemite to last year's repeat up the Z'Mutt Nose via the line established by ...
published: 7 months ago
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from Climber's Blog
On 27/09/2011 the Swiss alpinists Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michi Lerjen-Demjen climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn via the Bonatti Diretissima (ED+ 1200m) in 7 hours 14 minutes.
published: 8 months ago
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from INCLINED
The American Alpine Club is sad to note the passing of an alpine great, Walter Bonatti. Bonatti died after a long battle with cancer Tuesday evening in Rome. He was eighty-one. Bonatti was known for his pure, clean, and fast style, often climbing solo and in winter. He has left a mark on world alpinism that will not be forgotten. He was an Honorary Member of The American Alpine Club and a 2009 winner of the Piolet D’or Lifetime Achievement Award (the first to receive that honor). In 2004 Bonatti received
published: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
The alpine community has lost a giant. Walter Bonatti died of cancer last night. He was eighty-one. Perhaps the finest alpinist there has ever been. -Doug Scott Walter Bonatti is gone. After eight decades of life the Italian climber passed away in Rome. Born on June 22, 1930 in Bergamo in Italy Bonatti burst onto the climbing stage at the age of eighteen with the fourth ascent of the north face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m), one of the great north faces of the Alps. Three years later he made the first
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Lino Lacedelli, the Italian mountaineer who made the first ascent of K2, died November 20 in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy, where he had lived his entire life. He was 83 years old. Lacedelli's ascent of K2 with Achille Compagnoni on July 31, 1954 and the ensuing decades-long controversy often overshadows his career as a daring rock specialist and member of the Cortina Squirrels climbing club. Born in Cortina, Italy, in the heart of the Dolomites, Lacedelli made his first climbs as a young teenager and quickly
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from UKClimbing.com News
Lino Lacedelli has died aged 83, on November 20. He and Achille Compagnoni were the first team to summit K2 (8,611m) back in 1954.
Lacedelli's ascent was accompanied by controversy as he and fellow climber Walter Bonatti argued and accused each other of underhand tricks. Bonatti didn't make the summit, leaving Lacedelli and his climbing partner Achille Compagnoni as the final summit team.
Lacedelli's full account of the climb is detailed in his book K2 – The Price of Conquest, published in...
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from UKClimbing.com News
Walter Bonatti, perhaps the premier alpinist of the 1950s and early 1960s, will be honoured with the first Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement.
The “golden ice axe” will be presented to Bonatti in Coumayeur, Italy, at the foot of Mont Blanc, on April 24, as part of a five-day Piolet d'Or festival.
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