from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
Yesterday Rob Greenwood made the first ascent of Ibex Direct M8 on the dry tooling wall in the Never Never Land section of the Dinorwig Quarries.
Torquil Bennett had previously top roped the line, traversing across the lip of the tunnel at the start. Rob climbed the line second go, missing out the tunnel traverse at [...]
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from The Adventure Blog
Keywords:
winners,
American Alpine Club,
Karakoram,
$12k,
7,221m,
American Alpine Club Hands,
highly skilled climbers,
stunning 6,651m tower,
$12k To Fund Climbs,
ambitious challenge
The American Alpine Club has announced the winners of the 2012 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards , which are given annually to small teams making first ascents or other challenging climbs on some of the toughest mountains on the planet. This year, the bold climbers who have earned this recognition seem keenly focused on objectives in Pakistan and China. The winners each receive grants to help fund their expeditions, and the 2012 honorees certainly have some ambitious plans. The list includes the following:
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from Mountains and Water
About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...
published: 5 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress (5.10R/X, 270m) marks the first recorded ascent of the Horns' north tower, and Batu Naga (5.12R 300m) climbs "one of the proudest looking lines on the entire formation" up a prominent buttress on the south tower. Wright heard about the formation from Scotty Nelson, who did the first ascent of the south tower in 1999 and ...
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from The Adventure Blog
Last week I posted a story about an all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on the Mountain of Mountains this winter when they attempt to climb K2. Now, as the 16-man team prepares to depart for Pakistan, we get a few more details on the climb courtesy of ExWeb . In my original post, I wrote that the Russians were about to attempt the impossible, and while that is a bit of hyperbole, I do believe that a K2 winter ascent is perhaps the most challenging climb in mountaineering. It is a significant
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse's "Exploring the Alps" project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range's most prominent peaks--the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa. Signalkuppe is rarely visited. The first ascent of this peak was completed in 1906 by
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions. The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else managed to get special permission to climb in the show cave Peak Cavern near Castleton right in the middle of the Peak District. The idea was for myself and Alan Cassidy to see if we could find a route out of it! Peak Cavern, otherwise known as 'The Devil's Arse' is one of
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from Climber's Blog
Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions.
The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else m...
published: 6 months ago
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from Climber's Blog
Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has made the first ascent of Necronomicon 5.13d/5.14a beneath the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands, USA.
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from Climber's Blog
Keywords:
Mt. Logan,
Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama,
I-TO,
2011 AAJ,
attractive phrase,
I-TO The first ascent,
unclimbed south face,”,
3,000-meter unclimbed south face,”,
immense south face,
Canada
(Back to: Articles, 2011 AAJ) I-TO The first ascent of the immense south face of Mt. Logan, Canada. By Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it immediately captured my imagination. The attractive phrase was part of it, but [...]
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