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Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


12 Day Mountaineering Course

Image from Google Guides Winslow Passey, Ben Adkison and Hugh Gaasch , Dan, Shelby, JT, Dan, Moto, Geoff, Steve, Dave and Kurtis ready to fly to Pika for their 12 day course. The guides are ready to teach, students want to improve their skills. The main thing is to enjoy themselves while working hard and learning! They have flown into the Pica Glacier (aka Little Switzerland) area of the Alaska Range.


Barrill Summit #2

Image from Google Kevin Mahoney called in a bit ago, he and Geoff summitted Mount Barrill today! The weather is fine whether you are in the Alaska Range or here in Talkeetna. The lake on 3rd Street is navigable by canoe, kayak or Xtra-Tufs, might need to go motorized soon. ~Blogger Julia


"...at the very tippy top"

AMS Instructor/Guides Dan Corn Joey McBrayer called in just now with Rutger, they are standing on the tippy top of Mount Barrill! They ascended via the Japanese Couloir and are now enjoying the view on a spectacular day from 7,650 feet above sea level. They have been base camping with Kevin Mahoney and Geoff. After battling loads of snow, they are rappelling into a big crack in the Ruth Glacier for training, preparing for an attempt on Barrill tomorrow. All are well, Rutger says "Hi!", Joey says "Hi to ...


Ruth climbers

Image from Google Everyone called in today. Pictured here, to the left is the South Face of Mount Danbeard. Kevin Mahoney and Geoff are on route as we speak. I didn't actually talk to Kevin today, but Joey called in while on route on the South Eastern shoulder of Mount Danbeard. They were having a great time on the ridge. Joey, Dan and Rutger are having a blast and were already talking about their next route objective. Guide, Zack Schlosar called in from camp. They made an attempt on Mt. Dickey yesterday. They ran into lots


Weather break

Image from Google Guides Joey and Dan flew in this after noon with Rutger to start their adventure. Their original plan was to head out to the far SW corner of Denali National Park, but at least 8 feet of snow had accumulated in the last few days. They changed their plans and went to the Ruth Glacier. The Ruth should be considered one of the 7 wonders of the world. With granite walls close to a mile tall, it attracts climbers from all over the world. Rutger is psyched !! Kevin and Geoff also headed into the Ruth glacier.


Mail Bag: Tied Off Screws

First, sorry for the delay in posting. I've been on a speaking tour, an 80-hour first aid course and some other busy sports actopm. But all good! I answer a fair number of questions about ice, rock and paragliding gear and tactics. I try to always reply to these emails, but it recently hit me that readers of this blog might enjoy the answers as well. I'll try to post some of them up here for grins, using sorta made-up names. Got a question? Send it in, I'll get on it, thanks. Tied Off Ice Screws: Hi Will,


Episode 148: A 365-Step Program

A Toursit, Not A Sherpa Shortcut. Today was a day of many rituals. The entire team has arrived and so it was time to get back to business. Firts order of the day? One of the infamous Thamel haircut/massages! After the shave/haircut/massage/chiro adjustment with Geoff it was time to explore around the Kathmandu Valley a [...]


Second News Flash from the Summit!!

Image from Google 5:45 pm: Tim Hewette called in from the summit. He along with Gary, Patrick and Geoff were contemplating the view from 20,320 feet. 6:20 pm: Alex Stroud with Olga and Vadims have just joined Tim and the rest of the team. They are now standing on the summit and having lunch! The clouds cleared and they can see bogs and kettle ponds in the distance. They will descend to the 17,200 foot camp this evening.


Real time photos from the mountain.

Image from Google One of our guides, Melis , took a whole bunch of photos of our teams just for the blog. Eddie Cunningham at 11K. Looks like they just arrived. Mount Capps and the start of the N. Ridge of Kahiltna Dome in the background. Part of Peter Anderson and Nick D'Alessio's team at 11K. Geoff at 11K getting ready to take off his snowshoes and start setting up camp. Mark Postle's team at 14K. They are taking a rest day today at 14. Ken and Carlos at 14K. Here's a message from Ken: "Kayly, K.J. and Laura- Daddy misses