from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Kenny and I changed plans last minute and had a leisurly start up to Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. As Kenny is my mentor for the MIC scheme, he wanted to show me around the crag looking at different ways of getting into the crag, moving around the bottom and looking after folk on the routes. We climbed both Left Twin (III,4) and Molar Canal (III) which were both very nice routes. The ice was quite variable, most of the moist snowpack from the last few days had firmed up with the dropping ...
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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57 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Katy and I headed into Glencoe armed with sunglasses an axe and crampons and hit Curved Ridge (III). I had thought (or hoped) that it had an ascent yesterday and put a nice tracks in, unfortunately there wasn't, so today required alot of digging. Fortunately I remembered where most of the spikes were and some of the cracks. Katy was keen for leading too, so she got on the sharp end a couple of times which was great. Saved me doing all the digging! We didn't see anyone else on the route but saw some
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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35 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Katy had come over to visit and it was her first day out this winter after working no stop over in the North East. With a great forecast we had lots of options but we agreed that we wouldn't do anything too big and get too tired so we had a leisurely stroll up to the CIC hut, then onto the SW ridge of the Douglas Boulder (III). Today we saw Ken and his mate on Fat Boy Slim , John and his mate skied up ledge route and down something else, two guys headed to the base of number 4 and then headed back
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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53 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Last weekend was an active one for Colorado's Longs Peak. On Friday Alpinist Contributor and Mountain Standards Reviewer Blake Herrington completed the "Quadruple Lindy." The next day Josh Wharton made the first free ascent of the Diamond's Dunn-Westbay formerly graded at 5.10, A3, 1000 feet. Conceived by Bill Wright and Kelly Cordes in 2003, the "Triple Lindy" climbs the three biggest rock faces in RMNP, the Diamond (Longs Peak East Face), Chief's Head North West Face, Mount Alice East Face in a day ...
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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60 views
from Andy Mountains
Hi Andy, Did Eastern Gully on the Black Ladders today. The walk in was interesting weather starting with drizzle, turning to hail and then quite heavy snow by the time I reached the crag. So route location was a challenge but I worked out where it was in the end. I skipped the direct start on the ice and traversed in from the right. There was ice on the direct start but it was thin and didn't have a proper look as to whether it would have been climbable or not. There was a team that started Pyramid on the
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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99 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Keywords:
Kenny,
Fort William,
Today,
Fingers Ridge,
Kennys client,
Hidden Chimney,
routes like Fingers Ridge,
today on routes,
IV,6,
Perfect Choice
Today I was kick starting my next winter stint with a trip over to the Cairngorms with Kenny. We met up with Andy, Kennys client, aswell for a very socialable day. It was discusting weather leaving Fort William at 6am but as we got further East it was clearing up nicely. On arrival to the crag it was blue skies and a cold wind. We firstly climbed The Message (IV,6), topped out at 1pm, nipped back down and then climbed the Direct Start (IV,5) to Hidden Chimney (III). Many other teams out today on routes ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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76 views
from Andy Mountains
The following info is from Misha & is also on the UKC Welsh Winter Condition thread A couple of his photos below too. 'Hidden Gully on Clogwyn Ddu in easy condition for the grade. Good neve most of the way up with little bits of ice towards the top. From a distance, it didn't look like there was any ice on P1 of Clogwyn LH. However later spoke to a team who said they had gone up the approach gully to have a look and thought the ice was thin and required mixed climbing up the rock to the right. They didn't
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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158 views
from Andy Mountains
Hi Andy, Dave and I were a little optomistic this morning really and should have taken the hint when the drizzle hit us driving down. We walked into the back of Idwal passing plenty of drainage on the way at Introductory gully and Idwal Stream. The ice routes were still there so we made our way to what we thought maybe the fattest, the Screen. We arrived there to be greeted by a mini waterfall, lots of spray and the occasional small piece falling of it.......ok thaw well underway! We salvaged something out
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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96 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Izzi and I made our way over to Thirlmere and went for a look at Launchy Gill (III). On arrival it was clear the lower pitches were not in condition but the 20m steepening was good sport. We spent quite a while there looking at ice climbing techniques, this was Izzi's 2nd winter climb. When we stuck to the right of the Ice fall it was grade III, but further left it felt good at grade IV. Several other teams climbed on by and some carried on up for the upper pitches.
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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33 views
from Andy Mountains
Hi Andy, Heres a reoprt of yesterday for you mate: Myself and my mate Daz got out on the excellent North East Spur** III on Y Garn yesterday. After following the initial approach rib, we cut across to the Square Tower and took a direct line. Initial easy steps then led to a shallow groove (III) before gaining the crest proper onto "The Neck" and the final crux pitch (III). I think some people miss out the first groove and thats a shame as its just as tricky as the last pitch and makes a good 4 pitches of
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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119 views
