from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
The Amphu Lapcha A quick and cold fair well was given to Baruntse base camp as we got underway for Chukhung. This was expected to be a 12 hour day which would be a shock to the system after trekking for 6 hours at most on the walk in. Walking most of the way with Debbie and Gordon, we all doubted our ability to get over the Amphu Lapcha; however the prospect of failing wasn’t too great as the Amphu Lapcha was the only reasonable way out of the valley other than a helicopter… our time would come for ...
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Peak Lenin It’s now the beginning of September and after a highly eventful and emotional past 4 weeks, I have another long overdue blog to write, whilst I try my upmost to avoid getting burnt in this scorcher of a British summer. It does seem I have been slightly unlucky with the weather, missing the ‘real’ summer this April with a long revision period, however my luck changed during late July and early August as I ventured to Kyrgyzstan, a country famous for..?! What followed was the trip of a ...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from gravsports
Buy this book: A great new resource for local sport climbing, thanks to Derek for his work. Yesterday I got out with my least-repressed friend, Mr. Tim Emmett, along with Mr. Slawinski and Mr. K.H., who does not want his name on the internet. We visited The Notch, another really good craig in Echo Canyon (and covered in Derek's Bow Valley Sport). The Notch looks across the wide canyon to the Lookout, where I've spent at least 10 days this spring. Both craigs are over an over an hour of walking from the ...
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
Just as the final deadline for the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide arrives Ian Lloyd-Jones has struck again with another astonishing multi pitch route in Twll Mawr. Ian teamed up with his usual partner in crime, Sion McGuinness, plus Phil Dowthwaite and Andy Schofield, who had got the third ascent of Supermassive Black Hole a few [...]
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from 2010 Mountaineering Season
We bid adieu to our Operations Manager and Lead Guide, Rob Gowler as well as our Intern Erin Pollock and Guide Joey McBrayer (his third expedition this season) for the 6/27 Gowler Expedition. They had a one day weather delay but were able to practice their skills here in town and will be that much ahead when they hit the glacier. The final West Buttress team of the season: Guide Rob Gowler, Anastasia, Ian, Amy, Duncan, Intern Erin Pollock, Ed and kneeling in front, Ed's son Tim and Guide Joey McBrayer. ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
As promised, I drew the final two winners for my Ditch The Deet contest that I've been running over the past few weeks, and I'll be sending prize packages out to Ian Stevens of Naperville, IL. and Steven Smith of Midland, TX ASAP. Congrats to both Ian and Steven. Hopefully the swag will come in handy for battling off the bugs in the summer months ahead. Thanks to everyone for entering the contest over the past month, and as always, thanks for reading the blog. Keep checking in regularly, as I hope to have
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
In this video from Ian Caldwell on Vimeo, Ian and his climbing partner catch someone 'stealing' their quickdraws from their sport projects at Smith Rock in America.
On hard sport routes it is common practice to leave your quickdraws in place to make working the route easier, meaning you don't have to replace them each time you visit the crag.
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Up at the Buttermilks today Ian Cotter-Brown showed me his sweet new line called Hideaway on the Upside Boulder, mentioned earlier on this blog. It turns out to be a really cool problem with some unusual moves for the Buttermilks, traversing across the underside of the Upside Boulder using cross-throughs and heel hooks. Ryan Held making the first roll-through on Hideaway (v10?) There is a hard crux which Ian did with an insecure knee-bar. After doing the move this way my knee was pretty bruised. But since
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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