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Orange Crush Trailer

Orange Crush, a film by Alex Savage, features over 30 minutes of HD sports action in one of the greatest bouldering areas in the world, Rocklands South Africa. It showcases Jesse Bonin, Les Warnock, Kenyon Smith, Ian Cotter-Brown, Matthieu Saulnier, and Alex Savage climbing 22 boulder problems from 6B to 8B! Author:Savage Climbing Climber:Jesse Bonin, Les [...]


Karma, v6/7 by Matt Arnold

Matt Arnold told me about this line at the Happy Boulders a while ago, but not soon enough for me to include it in the new guidebook. Matt named it Karma , and I went to check it out today with a few others. We found a striking line--an overhanging double arete--that is climbed using a bit of trickery, a bit of slapping, and some staying power to pull the lip. The moves are fun and the rock is solid, though a bit rough. Matt's original beta forced the line up the left arete, but a motivated crew today ...


New line on Upside Boulder

Ian Cotter-Brown has reported a new line that traverses from left to right on the Upside Boulder before topping out. This boulder, which is located up past the Saigon Boulder about 100 yards or so, is newly included in the 2nd edition of the guide (page 299). The problem begins to left of the west face down low on a good hold and moves low right to top out on Early Exit (a v5 mentioned in the guide). The traverse could also potentially be linked into Upside (v8) to give a harder link. The problem done is


Fight Club Direct

Image from Google Ian Cotter-Brown made an ascent of Fight Club Direct yesterday. It is unclear if there's just one way to make the direct exit, but Ian came down on a rope to clean and chalk the holds and work out the moves on TR. After finding himself slipping off the top section one in three attempts, he declared a ropeless ascent would be like "rolling the dice." Even so, with a slew of pads he made an ascent without the rope. Nice one Ian. While at the time he thought this might have been the second ascent, this is ...


Fight Club

Image from Google Ian Cotter-Brown made an ascent of the very rarely repeated Fight Club (v11, on the Saigon Boulder) yesterday, making me realize I have to get out and do that line! It's kinda scary to top out up the slab leftward, but a direct has also been done. Here are a couple of shots of Ian from a couple days before his send, taped up and ready to rumble! Don't let that hippy tie-die fool you! Fight Club needs cold, ideally cloudy conditions.


Tony's Dyno and more ...

Well, temps are improving and Rock Creek continues to give up its toughest lines to some determined efforts and the occasional snap ascent. Interesting news of note is Adam Thomason's second ascent of "Tony's Dyno" (v11?) on the Boy Named Sue Boulder a couple of days ago. This sweet problem diverges left from the classic little crimping number, The Fluke , and had not seen a repeat since France's accomplished mountaineering and ski guide Tony Lamiche quickly dispatched it back in October 2007. Adam had ...


Rock Creek mid-week

Ian Cotter-Brown, Dude v9/10 Conditions were pretty good at Rock Creek mid-week, despite Bishop heat. Good enough for a session on the Boy Named Sue Boulder where pointless traverse link-ups are the name of the game ... Last year I linked The Groove into Boy Named Sue , and Charlie Barrett linked Boy Named Sue into The Groove and later Blood Brothers . Life Ain't Easy has since been linked into The Groove , and now the race is on to link Life Ain't Easy into Blood Brothers ! Ian Cotter-Brown, shown here