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Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

Image from Google The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre , who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all. On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be ...


The biggest mistake, by Stevie, the accident Haston.

Hydrophobia attack You know every body thinks they are unique, but there is nothing unique about most of us. Do you have a tail? What you don’t! What makes you good at something? Is it hard work, or that special something? Let me tell ya, that special something is just hard work, it aint your inherent genius, cos you aint special. Hard work is actually the key, try planting a field, try harvesting, try ffing anything for that matter. I love running not because it is exciting, or ‘extreme man’, but


Press Release: Joss Cam Recall

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Joss Rock Climbing Cam Units Recalled by Sierra Trading Post Due to a Fall Hazard; Sold Exclusively by Sierra Trading Post. WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product. Name of Product: Joss rock


10 of the best Long runs, by Stevie Slow Haston.

Keywords:
Mountain, runner, km, tenth, race, one, gi, start, miler, ultra

Image from Google Got alotta letters asking about great runs, and rather than keep wasting my time replying, and changing my opinion, I thought I’d set it in stone. There are many great runs, but there is only one that rules them, but more of that later. First this planet of ours is still incredible in its beauty and diversity, so we should as citizens of the world, take notice, take part, and do our best to keep at least. some corners of it immaculate, as mountain runners I hope we do that, and don’t drop those little


Climbing and the Olympics: Will Climbing Lose its Soul?

Image from Google About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...


1000 pull ups, by Stevie Haston

Image from Google Tools of the trade; pull up station, carpet, music is optional. It’s raining, or snowing, or something disagreeable. My partner is sick so I don’t want to drag her out belaying (I must be getting soft) so training. 1000 pull ups all kinds, not too bad, in fact better than expected or dreaded. Was able to pull up on ‘Kirstie's pinch’, but only after listening to the song line, ‘Save me from the nothing I have become’. Right arm one arm up very bad, mental note, must watch more internet porn! ...


Le Blond, la Brute, et le Manouche - Video

France, Italy, France, Italy, Greece, Italy, France, Austria, France, Italy, Austria, England, Austria, Itally, Switzerland, France, Spain, Mexico, France - My last two months... This time of year is always hectic, it seems like the majority of my work and non climbing commitments all come at the same time, which is a good thing as it leaves a lot of the year free, but can sometimes be frustrating when climbing has to be put on the back burner, and you feel yourself growing fat from all the eating out and


Standhardt's South Face At A Snail's Pace

Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour push from the Norwegos hut. Cerro Standhardt is named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt, who documented Patagonia's mountains and people in the first half of the twentieth century. In 1977, after several attempts, British duo Brian Hall and John Whittle climbed to the base of the snow mushroom via the


Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso

Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).


Fabrizio Peri and Jolly Lamberti redpoint new 8c+ at Grotti, Italy

Fabrizio Peri and Alessandro Jolly Lamberti have both managed to redoint "Debolezza e disonore" 8c+ at Grotti, Central Italy.