from Mountains and Water
The interweb is abuzz recently with items that touch on the issues of cheating in climbing. Jamie Emerson started off with a post on steroids and then followed up with a discussion of Evil Backwards being altered and made easier than the V14 it started out as. Andrew Bisharat, in his post on "Climbers Who Cheat," asks the question 'Is dropping weight in order to succeed on a hard ascent “cheating”?' And so on... While I would not make the argument that cheating doesn't exist in climbing, I wonder if
published: 10 months ago
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from Outdoor Habit
Jamie Emerson recently had an interesting post on steroids and climbing and Andrew Bisharat (the editor of RI ) recently posted a related article called " Climbers Who Cheat " discussing the advantage in climbing given by being thin. I just couldn't bite my tongue and hold off on responding to this most recent article. Since the R&I site doesn't allow comments, here are my thoughts. First, I think Jamie's article on steroids is good mainly for asking questions about steroid use in climbing in a public ...
published: 10 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
About a decade ago, an eon in the ever-evolving world of climbing, a new niche of the sport was born when boulderers started visiting a relatively obscure corner of Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon. Hidden in plain sight, the boulders there truly revealed their potential with the arrival of Dave Graham and suddenly bouldering in Colorado became important again. It has taken a while, but thanks to the efforts of Jamie Emerson, there is finally some documentation, presented in book form, of the ...
published: 11 months ago
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from Mountains and Water
A while ago, when I was establishing this blog, I would post items that I thought were newsworthy, but increasingly have left that to those with more aptitude . You can find these items on the RSS feeds on the right margin. They more or less all read "Johnny Rock (or Gianni Rocco or Jean Roche) does first/second/third ascent of an F8c (Fb8c) free solo/ from the low start/without shoes" and so on. The news cycle of the climbing world is practically 24/7 now and the task of sorting out signal from noise is
published: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
Snow and High Winds on Lake Haiyaha On Saturday, despite the RMNP webcam showing high winds and snow, I, and as it turned out a surprising number of others, decided to give the Park a try. Even though it was obviously not great weather above 10,000 feet, the parking lot at Beal Lake was almost totally full. I met up with Ryan Young on the trail and we set a fairly brisk pace up to the Autobot Boulder. A stiff breeze was blowing across the boulders, accompanied by regular snow showers, which made warming up
published: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
Looking down at Lincoln Lake I finally decided to try the area that has been the focus of many of the most active boulderers in the area for much of the summer. Lincoln Lake, AKA WolverineLand, is a pile of huge boulders below the Mount Evans Road, just above the lake. The access was pretty straightforward. After paying for a pass and driving up one of the most spectacular roads in the lower 48, you park above the lake and make your way down the tundra to the boulders, which sit somewhere around 11,00 ...
published: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
Recently a discussion emerged on the interwebs about the possibility that Paul Robinson had renamed a Fred Nicole problem in Rocklands South Africa. Originally called Black Eagle, Paul had appeared to propose the new name "Bleagle" to reflect the new status of the problem, on which crucial holds had broken. Among the most vocal critics of this step was Jamie Emerson who asked hypothetically what exactly constituted a boulder problem and by association, who had the right to define and name it. Shortly ...
published: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
Recently, I haven't been posting on the news in climbing since A. there hasn't been too much of interest and B. many other sites do it. However a new standard has just been set in women's bouldering; that is, a woman has sent a solid confirmed F8b. Jamie Emerson is the first to post news that Angie Payne linked the Automator , a low line of sloping edges and crimps in RMNP and a well-known testpiece in the grade. From working it, I can attest to its difficulty personally and the list of those who have done
published: about 1 year ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
Jamie Emerson reports Dave Graham has made another FA in the Wolverineland, RMNP:
"This is very much Dave's style, with a very hard toe hook move and a huge reach to a terrible sloper. Here is a photo from a few days ago when we worked out some of the initial moves. No word yet on a name, but this is the 4th problem suggested to be V14 in the area, and a classic one at that."
published: about 1 year ago
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from Mountains and Water
Lots of high-altitude hiking this week. After doing Gang Bang Arete, I decided a change of scenery was in order. Unfortunately Boulder got rained out on Wednesday so it was off to the Spot and a good session there, doing more 5-spots in one session than I have done for a while. I felt reasonably rested by Friday so this time I headed up to Upper Chaos. I really wanted to look at Barbed Wire Beard and Golden Rows of Flows and get a better look around up there. After an epic boulder-hopping hike with two ...
published: about 1 year ago
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