from Vertical Carnival Dispatches
Our crazy first year as a production team ended with a wild adventure to document the first ever climbing in the remote Ennedi desert of Chad, Africa. After 4 days/800km following a GPS coordinate on a roadless wasteland we found ourselves among thousands of beautiful unclimbed towers. Tim, Jimmy and I all have a lot of experience in expedition storytelling from the high himalaya to the jungles
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Jim Goodwin died on April 7. To the modern rock and ice climbing community, he was a legendary pioneer. But to the hundreds who joined him as children to hike the Adirondack trails, Jimmy Goodwin was so much more. Jim Goodwin saw himself principally as a guide, a status he treasured not for the money but for the shared joy. Good thing his career began before the AMGA policies manual: Jimmy tacked a notice on the bulletin board at the Interbrook Lodge when he was eleven years old. At fifty cents a day for
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from Mountains and Water
For the past week I had been hoping to finish off a project on Capstan Rock, an endeavor not aided by the soul-sucking "controversy" of the previous posts. This was the excellent and rarely repeated Daydreamer Direct SDS, put up by the amazingly strong but unknown Xander Oxman. This is a series of difficult crimp moves along the right arete of the formation culminating with a long throw to the Just Right pocket and the finish. Though graded by Jonathan Siegrist at V9, it feels exponentially harder than the
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from B3bouldering.com
While many climbers from around the world know Colorado as a summer bouldering destination, a number of awesome problems now exist for the winter and I know of no other place in America that has so many good hard problems to try, year-round.
All of these problems attract climbers from around the country. Most impressively, Jimmy [...]
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from Mountains and Water
As mentioned in a previous post, boulderers are getting unwanted scrutiny these days for not following the "rules' for a problem. The most recent example is an ascent by Jimmy Webb of Midnight Express , a V14 in Boulder Canyon. Jimmy can certainly climb V14 so there is no issue of claiming ascents of problems to inflate a climber profile. And of all the boulderers out there, Jimmy is the last one to try to game the system. His video shows straight up what he did. Ty Landman emailed me about trying to set
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from gravsports
A friend of mine calls any situation where the space between your ears stops working a "helmet fire." I love that expression; it's so descriptive of the times when we just stop thinking about the exterior world or "reality" and burn up in a mental paroxysm of self-fueled mental combustion. Every sport has it's "helmet fire" situations; pro athletes choke, skiers crash getting off the chairlift, novice climbers turn into jello and cling to the rock like terrified children, good leaders suddenly can't do a
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from James Pearson
Its time for more Expedition Reports from Chad. This time, Alex takes on one of the most disgusting routes I can imagine... So this dispatch is about a cool arch I got to climb. I’m typing it from the back of the jeep while we quest around the desert. We stopped at the Sao Paulo [sp??] Arch a few days ago while we were driving just to see it as tourists. But when we parked underneath we discovered an amazing offwidth crack that split the whole formation from one side to the other. The whole team decided
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
I’m just home from the Kendal Mountain festival where I had a great couple of nights speaking about The Pinnacle film and The Great Climb. The Pinnacle won the People’s Choice prize for the best film at the festival - thanks for voting for it! It’s great that people liked it so much. It was a great vibe at the premiere and watching the film for the first time I just felt so glad that we were able to make it. I think Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith’s story is as inspiring as ever and the film shows
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Hot Aches Productions DVD about our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis is ready. Tomorrow (Friday) I’m at the premiere of the film in Kendal and will be picking up our DVD stock from Diff there and dispatching orders when we come home on Monday. It’s up in the shop to order if you want a copy, right here . In case you missed my previous posts about our week, this is what all the fuss is about: In 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, probably the best ice climbers anywhere at the time
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from UKClimbing.com News
Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges and friends are spending some time at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas.
The boys seem to be enjoying themselves, and Brion has done his first 8B+, Dave Graham's Lost in the hood. The main difficulty of this problem is the very first move, a weird off balance deadpoint/catch. After that, the rest is easier, around 7B+ or so according to Jimmy, and once Brion manage to stick the first move, he didn't let go.
Jimmy was also very close, and is also close on both Wood...
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