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2012 Mugs Stump Grant Recipients

Image from Google 2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that


American Alpine Club Hands Out $12k To Fund Climbs

Image from Google The American Alpine Club has announced the winners of the 2012 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards , which are given annually to small teams making first ascents or other challenging climbs on some of the toughest mountains on the planet. This year, the bold climbers who have earned this recognition seem keenly focused on objectives in Pakistan and China. The winners each receive grants to help fund their expeditions, and the 2012 honorees certainly have some ambitious plans. The list includes the following:


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistan's Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a twenty pitch route (5.11d, A2) in six days alongside their teammates. Nafees Cap was first climbed by a Belgian-Polish team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik and ...


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistans Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a [...]


More on K7 West

Image from Google Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...


Super slovenian new route on K7

Slovenian alpinists Urban Novak, David Debeljak, Luka Strazar and Nejc Marcic have established Dreamers of the Golden Caves up the K7 (6934m) in the Charakusa valley, (Karakoram, Himalaya).


Rain and Rock in Pakistan

Image from Google Matt McCormick, Pat Goodman and Will Meinen recently finished a month of weather watching in Pakistan. For the second year in a row McCormick traveled to Pakistan in the hopes of climbing the southwest pillar of K7, and for the second year in a row the weather did not cooperate. Instead the trio settled for a new route on a previous unclimbed pillar, Fida Brakk (ca 5350m), which they named for Fida Hussein, their expedition cook. The 1050 meter V+, 5.11R, A0, Jenga Spur, proved somewhat harder in practice


2011 Mugs Stump Award Winners

Image from Google Seven teams, listed below, have received the Mugs Stump Award for 2011. Recipients of the grant will attempt bold new objectives in Alaska, British Columbia, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan and Russia, all in fast and clean alpine style. Kyle Dempster, K7, Pakistan; with Kelly Cordes. A first ascent of the unclimbed SW pillar (ca 6200 m), as well as a first-ascent on the east face of 6,934-meter K7 main. Colin Haley, Ogre II, Pakistan; with Bjorn-Eivind Artun. An alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed, un-attempted ...


Successful Season for Spanish Alpinistas

The Spanish National Women's Alpine Climbing Team found success this summer in the West Pyrenees and the Karakoram, completing a total of five first ascents. The four-woman team spent a year planning and training for their expedition to the Karakoram, and came together at the beginning of July in the West Pyrenees to make final preparations. They climbed existing routes the first four days, and then on July 10 the team spent twelve hours establishing a new line up the north pillar of Balaitous (3144 m).