from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today Kenny and I changed plans last minute and had a leisurly start up to Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. As Kenny is my mentor for the MIC scheme, he wanted to show me around the crag looking at different ways of getting into the crag, moving around the bottom and looking after folk on the routes. We climbed both Left Twin (III,4) and Molar Canal (III) which were both very nice routes. The ice was quite variable, most of the moist snowpack from the last few days had firmed up with the dropping ...
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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57 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today our plans changed last minute as we soon realised the Corran Ferry road was closed. So we weren't able to get down to the Southern Highlands for plan A. Instead we loaded up the bikes and headed up to Stob Coire an Laoigh. We couldn't get the van very high as there were too many fallen trees on the road and when we cycled up there were lots of trees down in the forest. On arrival to the crag it looked fantastic, We could tell on the walk-in that the turf was going to be bomber. Kenny and I agreed it
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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66 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today was the test to see if I have eaten too many cakes over the summer! On the walk in to the North Face of Ben Nevis, I was starting to think that I had. I just couldn't keep my knees above the snow. After 'swimming' up to the CIC hut, I realised that its not my 'winter weight' that was the problem but the vast amounts of snow up there. Kenny and I swam up to Fat Boy Slim (VI,6) on Secondary Tower Ridge hoping we would find tracks from Blair and Dave the day before. Unfortunately there were none! We did
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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58 views
from Stevie Haston
Just chatting about running sometimes seems to be running. Anyway ain't done much jogging, slow shuffling, or running but keep thinking about it, which isn’t the same either. I am a bit crook, have a gammy abductor which I have made worse by climbing at my favourite crag. I have in fact worked with my injury, doing building work, run up my hill, gone swimming and diving, caving too, and they all hurt. Cycling is ok which shows you the value of having a pushbike. Anyway was thinking about three of my ...
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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32 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
After loosing my axe, Kenny and I had to head down to Chamonix to pick up my mountaineering axe to replace it. So as we were down we had a burger and some beers. This morning we took an early lift up the Aguille Du Midi but got off at the half way station. Our plan of action was the classic Frendo Spur. As we didn't get the first lift, there were several teams ahead of us but by the time we had got to a hard section and roped up, we had passed them all. There was one other team we passed higher up, they
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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65 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Our hiding place just after dodging the rock fall Today felt like a hard day! We summited Mont Maudit at the top of the Frontier Ridge at 10am after setting off at 5am in the morning. I know the problem was that we weren't acclimatised at all, and we had climbed up to 4465m, and only arrived in Chamonix the day before yesterday. Anyway the route was fantastic! The climbing was very exposed but never too difficult. The were quite a few snowy ridges which felt a little spooky but generally fun to climb over.
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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25 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
So after arriving last night in Chamonix, Kenny and I got the first lift up the Aguille Du Midi and headed over to the Triangle on Mont Blanc du Tacul for a warm up route, we climbed a combination of pitches, 4 in total and then abbed off. The ice was generally good and this climb allowed us to blow a few cobwebs away and remember how to use axes and crampons! I think we mainly followed the German Couloir. A super warm day with many teams out on the Chere Couloir. After we abbed of we went and got our bags
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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66 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Keywords:
Kenny,
Fort William,
Today,
Hidden Chimney,
routes like Fingers Ridge,
today on routes,
Fingers Ridge,
Kennys client,
IV,6,
Perfect Choice
Today I was kick starting my next winter stint with a trip over to the Cairngorms with Kenny. We met up with Andy, Kennys client, aswell for a very socialable day. It was discusting weather leaving Fort William at 6am but as we got further East it was clearing up nicely. On arrival to the crag it was blue skies and a cold wind. We firstly climbed The Message (IV,6), topped out at 1pm, nipped back down and then climbed the Direct Start (IV,5) to Hidden Chimney (III). Many other teams out today on routes ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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76 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
As the routes up high on the Ben looked good yesterday, Kenny and I headed up to Number Three Gully Buttress and climbed Sioux Wall (VIII,8). Kenny made quick leads on the harder pitches and we finished the route quite quickly. The route was in perfect condition with great climbing throughout. We descended Number Three Gully. Not many climbers out today. Snow falling at the moment in Fort William.
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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69 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
I never thought I would climb this route on my first Alpine climbing trip! The right partner, weather and conditions allowed it to go. Kenny and I had been keeping a close eye on the weather in Switzerland and saw a good spell of settled weather. We left Chamonix and headed over to the Grindlewald valley to be greeted with a awesome looking Eiger. The weather looked good, we heard the route had been climbed recently and with reports of good conditions we got ready to get stuck in. We headed up to the foot
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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126 views
