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Burdet, Lama, Siegrist climb Cerro Kishtwar

Denis Burdet and Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), David Lama (Austria) and the American climber/photographer Robert Frost have made the second ascent of India's Cerro Kishtwar.


Cerro Torre Trip Report

Image from Google Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...


Lama backs down on Cerro Torre rap-bolting

Image from Google Considerable opposition by Patagonian activists to David Lama's proposed style while attempting to make a free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, has led the young Austrian to re-think his tactics.


David Lama Reconsiders Cerro Torre Plans?

Image from Google In what seems like a final update on last weeks David Lama news, Colin Haley reports that Lama has decided to forgo his plans to rap bolt on Cerro Torre.  Unfortunately for all climbers in the Patagonia region the weather this season has been bad even by local standards which has prevented much of anything, good or [...] David Lama Reconsiders Cerro Torre Plans? from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: More From Colin Haley On The David Lama Saga David Lama


The Saturation Point

The most recent controversy to emerge is David Lama's return to Cerro Torre. Having already run into a hornet's nest of controversy regarding the placement of bolts and leaving equipment on the mountain, Lama still wants (needs?) to finish his free ascent of the Compressor Route. Having pledged to avoid the excesses of the first trip, he has now announced that if necessary he will get to the summit and rappel down to place any needed gear. This is according to Colin Haley's excellent blog post on the ...


Lama's Bolts Cut: It Begins Again

Image from Google News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.-Ed. In a recent post on Supertopo.com Rolo Garibotti reports cutting seventeen of the bolts placed by David Lama's film crew on Cerro Torre. Last winter, professional climber David Lama set out to free Maestri's Compressor Route , and make a film of the expedition. Boasting of his ...


FA by Lama at Cse

While Gabri Moroni was back home for a few days to sort out his business, David Lama got back to work on the Dave Graham-project in the Berlin sector at Cse. He was close a few years ago, but was unable to seal the deal. Gabri described the route as long and sustained, not so steep, with small pockets all the way and very long run-outs, like a mountain-route. He was about to start making lead attempts, so it seems the a little friendly competition was what was needed to geet it done. I...


David Lama and Cerro Torre

Red Bull can found in Upper Chaos Canyon, July 2010 One of the most interesting debates raging in the climbing community right now is the issue of Austrian climber David Lama's attempt to free climb Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Lama's sponsor agreed to underwrite the trip but wanted a high-production value film out of it. The quick summary is that in the effort to make a film of the climb, a team of guides added extra bolts to safeguard the film crew and ultimately abandoned a fair amount of gear on the ...


Lama Speaks Out on Compressor Debacle

Image from Google Editor's Note: In a June 1, 2010 NewsWire , Alpinist.com reported that dozens of bolts had been added to the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in support of David Lama's attempt to free the iconic route. The story incited a heated ethical debate that resounded in the climbing world. On July 25, Lama responded to the controversy on his website. What follows is a translation of the German that Lama posted on david-lama.com . Over the last few months my sponsor Red Bull and I have been confronted with heavy ...


Lama about the Red Bull controversy

Swiss climber, David Lama has now decided to comment on what happened during his attempt to free climb the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. In short, Lama says he regrets what happened, that this wasn't the plan and that he has learned from the mistakes made. He had his hands and mind full, and had to concentrate on his own climbing, leaving the safety of the film crew to be handled by a team of three mountain guides. This was agreed from the start. The main focus for the guides...