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Standhardt's South Face At A Snail's Pace

Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour push from the Norwegos hut. Cerro Standhardt is named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt, who documented Patagonia's mountains and people in the first half of the twentieth century. In 1977, after several attempts, British duo Brian Hall and John Whittle climbed to the base of the snow mushroom via the


Head Games

Today I was back at my old stomping ground , Quadrocks, Largs, to see how my head space was for getting on route's that I cannot afford to make mistakes on. I teamed up with Al (climbing partner for impending trip to Mournes) Alan Fox (photographer) and my mates Tam and Alec. The banter was good and the conditions fine for a spot of mid grade soloing. With my promise to myself and a few close others to stop soloing broken I set off up The Arete, E3 for my first route of the day and climbed in a focus ...


2011-03-16 20:02:00

The Review Issue Way back in the day (mid-nineties) I was the primary equipment reviewer for RockIce magazine. I loved that job for three reasons: First, I could get whatever gear I was interested in sent to me. Second, I would get all of that category of gear sent to me; hundreds of climbing holds for example, or a massive pile of roughly 50L packs. Third, I could basically write whatever I wanted to about the gear, and did. Today I get paid by a few different companies to test products and develop ideas


Flatiron Climbing Council

Tuesday I was called upon to meet with some heads for the Flatiron Climbing Council, a volunteer organization. Their goal is to build a stewardship and education program targeting the community at large and initially bouldering areas. In an effort to educate local climbers of the impacts of their land usage and the consequences [...]


Under a threatening sky.

Looking over towards Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg under a threatening sky. Not very much ice on the north face of Aonach Beag, there has not been the freeze thaw cycles required to build the ice at this level so far this year. A large and threatening cornice lurking at the top of easy gully at the moment. Looking south across Coire an Lochan.


Soft cornices.

Last nights wind and snow has formed some large and fragile cornices. These are prone to collapse both spontaneously, or if disturbed, and can easily release the windslab on the slope below. Unfortunately the light was very flat, and you can't see much in any of the pictures that I took of the cornices. However, the picture shows the side/crown wall of a cornice triggered slab avalanche (notice the rope, I approached this safely via a short abseil from the top). Although this was not a large avalanche in


Climbing Companies - Giving Something Back

UKClimbing.com have just undergone a news page redesign. On the new look page is an area for Outdoor Industry News (below and right) enabling climbing companies to upload press releases to UKC. It seems that despite the credit crunch, many climbing companies, both large and small, are doing what they can to support worthy causes. Of course these companies gain promotion from their support of these causes, but if you are doing something good, it's worth shouting about...