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12 Day Mountaineering Course Waiting on the Weather

Image from Google I just got off the phone with Mike Janes, lead guide of the course. It is snowing lightly on the Eldridge Glacier and not flyable at this time. There are some low clouds here in Talkeetna; however things can change quickly and there is plenty of daylight to fly. Two days ago, the students moved up glacier on their own, to the landing strip. The guides followed a few hours later. All went well and they have been learning, learning and climbing a lot. The group has requested beer, pizza and fruit....in that


Final Denali WB Expedition Left This Morning - 6/27 Gowler

Image from Google We bid adieu to our Operations Manager and Lead Guide, Rob Gowler as well as our Intern Erin Pollock and Guide Joey McBrayer (his third expedition this season) for the 6/27 Gowler Expedition. They had a one day weather delay but were able to practice their skills here in town and will be that much ahead when they hit the glacier. The final West Buttress team of the season: Guide Rob Gowler, Anastasia, Ian, Amy, Duncan, Intern Erin Pollock, Ed and kneeling in front, Ed's son Tim and Guide Joey McBrayer. ...


Updates from Denali

Image from Google We spoke with Mike Hammell, lead guide on the 6/15 West Buttress expedition , earlier today. His team along with Peter Anderson's 6/13 and Aaron Mainer's 6/15 expeditions are waiting out the weather at 14k. Mike reports that it's been "snowing and blowing." Weather isn't too bad, but hasn't been good enough to move up the mountain. All three groups are cached and ready to go up, however, as soon as it's clear. We have word from slightly lower elevation as well: Greg Vernovage and the 6/22 West Buttress ...


Lama Speaks Out on Compressor Debacle

Image from Google Editor's Note: In a June 1, 2010 NewsWire , Alpinist.com reported that dozens of bolts had been added to the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in support of David Lama's attempt to free the iconic route. The story incited a heated ethical debate that resounded in the climbing world. On July 25, Lama responded to the controversy on his website. What follows is a translation of the German that Lama posted on david-lama.com . Over the last few months my sponsor Red Bull and I have been confronted with heavy ...


Go SLO!

Image from Google Warm coastal weather, small town charms, abundant outdoor activities, rolling wine country, and beaches galoreSan Luis Obispo naturally captures the California spirit. Positively Rockin! Awesome! Nice! Whoo-hoo! This is the most common thing youll hear on a morning sea kayak trip with SLO Coast Kayaks. The outfitters owner and lead guide, Vincent Shay, loves what he doesand his enthusiasm is positively contagious. Hes been kayaking for over 20 years and now runs his own show. The Fossil Point Adventure ...


Lama, Red Bull, Cerro Torre

Keywords:
bolts, Lama, AG, Red Bull, climb, crew, film, pin, RB, route

Image from Google The following is my best understanding of what actually happened on the Lama trip, and then some analysis. Anyone who wants the story so far can read this or lots of other commentary out there. Most of this writing is wrong to some degrees, including my initial post . I've spent hours emailing and on the phone with everyone involved that I could contact: David Lama, Red Bull, the guides on the trip, the film makers, Rolo, and many others. I have yet to reach anyone who was on the cleanup crew despite ...


Leighan's 2010 West Buttress Team

Image from Google front row: Lead Guide, Leighan Falley, Assistant Guides Dusty Eroh and Todd Tumolo, Arnaud, back row: Ulrica, Vidar, Ulrica, Tapi, apprentice, Chris Smith, Sigrid and Lance. Too many words and not enough photos. Here is the last expedition of the 2010 season. They were not able to fly in today but spent the day roped up in teams traveling up and down the dirt road avoiding mud puddles. Blogger Laura


Rob, Mike and Beth's Team Gets Ready

Our Intern Beth Cleary goes over gear with Andy. Lead guide, Rob Gowler and Rich...those are some big boots to fill! Steve and guide Mike Janes go over the finer points of stuff sacks. Ryoko and Rod packing lunches.