from Ian Parnell Photography
Last Friday saw a post Christmas shake-down at 'dry tooling central' aka White Goods. Even 3 moves into my warm up I knew which one I was of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Totally flat and fat! Mr T claimed to feel the same but he still quickly dispatched White Goods and then set about Left Over Goods the very stern roof testpiece at the lefthand side of the main crag. A big effort on multiple figure of fours into fig nines saw both Andy's axes left abandoned near the top of the crag and his forearms ...
published: 4 months ago
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from James Pearson
France, Italy, France, Italy, Greece, Italy, France, Austria, France, Italy, Austria, England, Austria, Itally, Switzerland, France, Spain, Mexico, France - My last two months... This time of year is always hectic, it seems like the majority of my work and non climbing commitments all come at the same time, which is a good thing as it leaves a lot of the year free, but can sometimes be frustrating when climbing has to be put on the back burner, and you feel yourself growing fat from all the eating out and
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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40 views
from Guy Steven - Mountain Leader
Today didn't go quite as expected! Last night Tony and I decided to head over to the Cairngorms for a look over at the Shelterstone. On arrival it was clear that our both possibilities were in. It was either Sticial face or Citadel. We opted for The Citadel (VII,8). Everything was going well, we were moving quickly, the climbing was tricky and felt very bold as neither of us were able to find much gear. The route is very sustained but with two significant crux's. A lower crux and the top crux. Tony had got
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
More development on the Ibex Wall at Never Never land in the slate quarries. Torquil Bennett has added Monkey-Bar Kid M6+ to the left of The Deerhunter.
“At around is M6+, Monkey-Bar Kid is the warm-up that both Ibex and Deerhunter were intended to be. The Deerhunter (M7?) is a pumpy route with a great crux [...]
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from Online Climbing Coach
When coaching climbers I’m constantly trying to encourage them to set up a routine both in themselves and as a group of peers climbing together of recording the details of their climbing movement and tactics and discussing the feedback and experimenting with different ways of doing everything. Examples of this might be: how does the move change if you lunge a bit harder, or pull more with the right toe, or use that other foothold instead? The criteria for for success on a move isn’t just if you can ...
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistan's Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a twenty pitch route (5.11d, A2) in six days alongside their teammates. Nafees Cap was first climbed by a Belgian-Polish team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik and ...
published: 5 months ago
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downloaded: 5 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse's "Exploring the Alps" project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range's most prominent peaks--the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa. Signalkuppe is rarely visited. The first ascent of this peak was completed in 1906 by
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Last weekend I had the chance to take out the UK's current rock stars, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, to a place in the desert which boasts a very high concentration of sandstone roof crack routes and boulder problems. The climbs vary from thin fingers to massive off-widths and can be up to 50 meters long! Needless to say, they were very excited to get the tour and I was excited to take them back to my old stomping grounds and to a left over project or two. Tom and Pete (aka the "Wideboyz") had just come
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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