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Smiths Route, Ben Nevis

Image from Google There was a really good atmosphere up on Ben Nevis today, its always great when you see lots of people you know. Kenny , John and I headed up into Observatory gully with quite an open mind. Word had got round that some ice routes were quite fat. They were not wrong. There were several teams ahead and behind us, all heading up into the same area. At first it looked like 3 teams were heading for Smiths but fortunately they all went their separate ways. One them headed up Tower Gully (I), Luke and Conrad went


Hold breaking at the Orme

Image from Google Today the weather wasn't great but Luke and I grabbed our harnesses, shoes and rope and headed down to the Great Orme . On arrival it was very cold and damp so we didn't risk going into the diamond which was our primary aim. Its a little bit of a risk if its a bit wet as it has a interesting approach which is great fun but wastes some time if the conditions arnt great. Instead we opted for climbing right next to the road. It was great Luke parked right below the climb..... Well it was great till a large


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 6 (Spartacus & Panorama)

The two final climbing days were upon us. Spartan Wall offered some new slabby warmups up to 35m in length, and Ruth and Dave decided to stay on here while the rest of the crew headed uphill to Spartacus. Ruth gingerly pads up a huge tongue of rock on Spartan Wall. Kurt bags Yo-Yo 6a+. A newie on Spartan Wall. An odd sight at the cliff! Spartacus hosts a great collection of routes in an orange bowl and our team ate them up. Harakiri 6b+, Tales Of Greek Heroes 6b+ and Les Amazones 6c were all dispatched as


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 5 (Ghost Kitchen and Odyssey)

Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 4 (Grande Grotta and Arhi)

Hey y'all! Let's get into the pics. Day five of climbing was in the mighty Grande Grotta and surrounds. This massive cave is the most famous sector on the island. Kurt's been experimenting with the GoPro capturing footage while climbing. I've often thought of headcam shots as "vomit footage" because the camera is swinging around wildly, but he's captured a few cool short grabs which I will certainly try to get into the trip video. This is a newish route in the Grande Grotta called Happy Girlfriend. It ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 3 (Odyssey and Symplegades)

Alright. After the team's first couple of days a rest day was in order. So we piled into the Upskill limousine and began our Kalymnos mega tour. The main port town Pothia, the impressive church and monastery of Saint Savaas, and the scenic township of Vathy were all ticked. In order to work up an appetite, we decided some swimming, snorkeling and cliff jumping was in order... The water was just as good as it looks here. I've got a mighty spring going in this photo. At our restaurant at Vathy which is an


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 2 (Kastelli and Poets)

First things first, come meet our team. Team Upskill 2011 On this climbing camp we are blessed with a diverse group with a wide range of ages and experience. From Luke and Kurt, for whom Kalymnos is their first true taste of climbing outside the gym, to Dave Reeve who has been climbing since the 1950s when it was all about swami belts, hemp rope and hip belays! Day one was all about getting familiar with limestone climbing. Though the weather was hot, we knew where to head. The picturesque crag of Kasteli


Lessons from Bailing off El Cap

Image from Google This past weekend, Luke and I decided to climb Lurking Fear, a ~20 pitch route on the Southwest Face of El Capitan. The upper pitches are on the slabby side, so most advice was to travel light, because hauling would be bad on the upper part of the route. We decided to fix ropes up [...]


More nav and session by the sea

Image from Google Today was day two for my navigation team. Today we headed up fro a circuit up and over Cnicht. Weather was really pleasant throughout the day, which usually means navigation was quite easy, so I turned up the difficulty to see what the team are capable of. A strong day from everybody. After work Blair, Caff, Luke and I headed down to the Great Orme for a crank on some sport routes. I sent Night Glue (7a+) and then had a play I've Been A Bad Bad Boy (7c) which was super hard, after Luke put the clips in for


Fairhead

Just arrived back from a week away in Northern Ireland sampling some of the countrys best trad climbing. 100m abseil ropes packed, double set of cams packed, vast ammounts of chalk and spare forearms are Fairhead essentials. Not only were we tackling the uber long routes but doing this in some of the foulest weather I have rock climbed in! Winds gusting up to 70mph bringing in cloud and rain. We were all climbing in down jackets where possible and even gloves!We had a team of 10 and between us we climbed