from Ian Parnell Photography
Last Friday saw a post Christmas shake-down at 'dry tooling central' aka White Goods. Even 3 moves into my warm up I knew which one I was of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Totally flat and fat! Mr T claimed to feel the same but he still quickly dispatched White Goods and then set about Left Over Goods the very stern roof testpiece at the lefthand side of the main crag. A big effort on multiple figure of fours into fig nines saw both Andy's axes left abandoned near the top of the crag and his forearms ...
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
October 2011 Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011 After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the "Red Soldier", the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker , in late fall of 2010, I knew I'd go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far. I would
published: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In the last weeks of winter, Grant Meekins and Raphael Slawinski put up a bolt-free ice and mixed line at Storm Creek in the Canadian Rockies. The Peach (WI5 M8, 110m) climbs an overhanging scoop of yellow limestone below an "imposing" dagger of ice hanging from the top of the wall. The duo established the climb ground-up in four short pitches. Slawinski first came across the climb in spring of 2008, and bailed from the third pitch on his first attempt. "We retreated from below a radically overhanging ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
During unusually favorable winter conditions in the Julian Alps, two Slovenian climbers established a direct variation up the north face of Triglav (2864m). Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnc spent 33 hours linking together parts of three summer routes to form their direct line. The new route is named Sanjski Joza (VI/V, M7+, 1050m) or "Dream Joza" in honor of Joza Cop who first climbed its upper section in the summer of 1945. The first two sections of the new line include portions of Sakalaska (summer V+)
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On June 20, Canadians Jason Kruk and Jon Walsh climbed a new line up the storied Emperor Face on Mt. Robson (3959m), the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Walsh reported that on June 19, he and Kruk covered the 23-kilometer approach to a small lake beneath the Mist Glacier in four and a half hours with ample time to rest up and get organized before their big push up the 2500-meter face. On June 20, Walsh and Kruk started up the moraines towards the Emperor Face at 3:20 a.m. Unexpectedly warm night-time
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Climber's Blog
Black Diamond athlete Albert Leichfried teamed up with Benedikt Purner in early December 2009 to make the first ascent of the longest icefall in Austria, the 1000-meter long Moonwalk (WI 6 M7). Moonwalk is a combination of classic north face climbing with serious waterfall and mixed climbing. Below is a short report and photos Leichtfried sent us about the ascent. Somewhere close to the ridge between the mountains Hohe Warte (2943m) and Sagwand (3227m) in the Zillertal Alps a little runnel has its source.
published: over 2 years ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
J osh Wharton has outclassed some of the world's best ice-climbing talent again this year. The Colorado-based climber who won the Ouray Ice Festival climbing competition in 2009 triumphed again today at this year's Ouray contest--winning by a huge time margin. One of only two competitors to finish the route, Wharton topped out in about 15 minutes; second place went to Sam Elias, who scrambled at the last moment to finish two seconds shy of the 20-minute cutoff. The Ouray Ice Festival is an annual event,
published: over 2 years ago
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from www.arareko.net
After monitoring ice and snow on a big objective in Austria's Zillertal Alps for more than a year, Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner found ideal conditions last week. The result was Moonwalk (WI6 M7, 1000m), the longest icefall climbed to date in Austria according to Leichtfried... Taken from: Alpinist Magazine .
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
After monitoring ice and snow on a big objective in Austria's Zillertal Alps for more than a year, Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner found ideal conditions last week. The result was Moonwalk (WI6 M7, 1000m), the longest icefall climbed to date in Austria according to Leichtfried. Early on the morning of December 3, Leichtfried and Purner skied to the base of the north-facing climb, located near the ridge that runs from Hohe Warte (2943m) to Sagwand (3227m). They climbed 13 pitches of varied ...
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
Albert Liechtfried and Benedict Purner climbed a new route on the 3rd of December in the Tirol area of Austria.
Moonwalk (WI 6, M7) is 1000m long and is on the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps between Hoher Warte (2943 m) und Sagwand (3227 m).
Describing the ascent on PlanetMountain, Liechtfried said:
"A combination of a classic rock-climbing wall with serious and difficult mixed. I still can not believe we did it, my dream came true!"
Full Report with Photos (German): Klettern
...
published: over 2 years ago
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