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Koyamada climbs Daedalus, 8B+

While waiting for the temeratures to go down in Cresciano, so he can start making serious attempts on David graham's The story of two worlds, 8C, Dai koyamada is biding his time and keeping fit by escaping to higher ground at Sustenpass. His latest ascent was the first repeat of Martin Keller's Daedalus, 8B+, an extension to the classic Traumland, 8A. Meanwhile, Martin came even closer to doing his looong standing Highlander-project, an extension of Daedalus which he has been working on for a...


Zauberberg Freed

On June 2, 2011 brothers Martin and Florian Riegler made the first free ascent of Zauberberg on the north face of Ciastel de Chedul in Valle Lunga in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean duo freed the 400m line; the crux pitch goes through a ten meter roof graded at 8a. The Zauberberg is named after the Thomas Mann's masterpiece novel Magic Mountain . The route was first established in 2009 by Stefan Comploi and Ivo Rabanser. These two Val Gardena mountain guides climbed the line at 7-, A2. Ivo Rabanser asked


Tiger vs Wolf - Peg-free Ascent in Cornwall

Image from Google Martin Cathrow has made a peg-free ascent of Wolf at the Door, an E6 in Pendower Cove Cornwall. The route is protected by six stainless steel pegs which Martin chose not to clip. In a controversial move he chose to wear tiger lycra for the ascent.


By: Martin K

Image from Google Mark, Well said. The points that you made in your initial post are reasonable & fair, and your reasoning is sound. I suspect that mrs/ms Winrow is a made up name and/or with a vested interest. According to 192.com, a person of that name lives in Gwynedd. It might not be too much of a coincidence that Greenwood Forest Park is also in Gwynedd. "People like you" (ha!) are vital to ensure that the facts behind this most tragic of events are not obscured, ignored r otherwise swept under the carpet. A terrible


Spanish Ice

Image from Google On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse


Spanish Ice

Image from Google On Feburary 12, a new line was established on the third wall of Spain’s Cirque de Gavarnie. The new route, Momento Mori, was climbed by Martin Elias, Unai Mendia, and Albert Salvado over the course of two weekends. The first attempt began on February 5 when the trio spent Saturday scaling the first two walls, reaching their bivouac at about 5pm. There they enjoyed a hot tea while discussing plans for Sunday's assault. Climbing began late the next morning. The first pitch was an undemanding 60 m traverse


The new story of Ikarus and Daedalus

6 years after he first began piecing together the big project on the Traumland block at the Sustenpass, Martin Keller has finally made the first ascent of Ikarus/Daedalus. It's been an epic story of ups and downs, which is most excellently described in his blog, Swizzy bouldering. About the difficulty of the whole thing, Martin says "...it can be put it in pieces and compared to others: IKARUS is arround a 7C+ linking into a hard 8A - that's about the same numbers as the "neverendingstory"...


Review: How to Climb Harder

Image from Google As part of the book checking process I asked Martin Chester to look through the book for possibly mistakes, and at the same time make a review of the book. I cant thank Martin or others who have helped me out in the long process of writing this book enough. Below is his review which [...]


Group Photo...off to the Airport

Guide Greg Vernovage , Peter, Milos, Martin, Guide Nick D'Alessio and Petr. Doggie Butterball is not going with them.


Deja Vu

I went for a little after work climb on Sunday with Martin and Llion, we headed up to the Slate, as at least it had the potential to be dry after the showers earlier on. As we drove up the weather look OK, and walking in to the quarries we met the new security guards, [...]