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Father-Son Team Establish New Route on Monte Rosa Massif

Image from Google On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse's "Exploring the Alps" project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range's most prominent peaks--the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa. Signalkuppe is rarely visited. The first ascent of this peak was completed in 1906 by


Robert Jasper completes free trilogy

Image from Google Accompanied by his usual Swiss climbing partner Roger Schaeli, German alpinist Robert Jasper has recently made the second overall and first free ascent of Voie Sébastien Gay on the North Face of the Matterhorn.


Speed record ascent on the Matterhorn

Image from Google Towards the end of September Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michael Lerjen made an astonishingly rapid ascent of the legendary Bonatti Direct on the North Face of the Matterhorn, completing the 1,200m ED3 route in just seven hours and 14 minutes.


Matterhorn via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes

The North Face of the Matterhorn witnessed a great, fast ascent yesterday at the hands of 23-year-old Patrick Aufdenblatten and 26-year-old Michi Lerjen-Demjen, who climbed the face in 7 hours and 14 minutes via the route established by Walter Bonatti alone and in winter during his extraordinary and historical ordeal from 18 to 22 February 1965. The two Swiss alpinists form a formidable team and have climbed together from Yosemite to last year's repeat up the Z'Mutt Nose via the line established by ...


Matterhorn, via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes by Aufdenblatten and Lerjen-Demjen

On 27/09/2011 the Swiss alpinists Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michi Lerjen-Demjen climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn via the Bonatti Diretissima (ED+ 1200m) in 7 hours 14 minutes.


Blue Plaque for Edward Whymper

Image from Google The first man to climb the Matterhorn has been commemorated with an English Heritage blue plaque.


Walter Bonatti Dead at 81

Walter Bonatti, who was one of the most influential climbers in the postwar scene in the European Alps and Himalayas has died at 81. Noted especially for his solo ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru in France, he was also embroiled in controversy regarding the Italian expedition to K2 in 1954. He retired for the most part from serious climbing at 35, after a solo new route on the Matterhorn in winter.The author of a number of books on climbing, he was regarded as one of the best writers on the sport.


Paul Guschlbauer Climbs Podium at the Red Bull X Alps

27-year old Paul Guschlbauer was the big surprise at this year's Red Bull X-Alps competition – a non-stop adventure race over 864 km for selected athletes. The challenge is to cross the Alps from East to West as quickly as possible travelling only by paraglider or by foot. After 14 days, thousands of people followed the close duel for second place between Arc'teryx athlete Guschlbauer and Romanian Toma Coconea in the live-stream. Since 2003, the X-Alps race takes place every two years and is known as one


Major Alpine Trilogy - Update

Earlier in the year Jon Griffith reported on two major alpine ascents climbed by Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cédric Perillat-Merceroz. The pair of French climbers knocked off a hard route on both the Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger and were hoping to add a route on the Matterhorn to complete their winter 'trilogy'. Now they have.


Weekend Cabin: Monte Rosa Hut, Switzerland

The Monte Rosa looms over Italy and Switzerland and if it werent for its famous neighbor the Matterhorn, it would likely be better known to North Americans. Its the highest peak in both those countries, and on the south side of the it lies Alagna, the infamous Valley Y, while on the east is tucked [...]