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Haven't read Cold Wars? A summary in 3 minutes...

I haven't yet read Cold Wars but this short videohasAndy Kirkpatrick explaining Cold Wars and the main themes in 3 minutes. Trying to ride the balance between obsession and normality. Definitely some resonance in there...


VIDEO: Dave MacLeod Interview

Image from Google In this, the final video in the Mountain Equipment series, we talk to Dave MacLeod, perhaps currently the UK's top all round climber. Dave talks about his climbing achievements, his super-route Echo Wall , how he tries to balance his obsession with big routes with a 'normal life' and his intimate relationship with Ben Nevis.


ESPN Profiles World Tri-Athlete Charlie Wittmack

Image from Google Remember Charlie Wittmack? He was the guy we were following since last summer when he set out on his World Tri , an expedition that included a swim across the English Channel, a bike-ride across Europe and Asia, and a climb to the summit of Everest. I wrote about his progress a few times along the way, but after he was struck by a car in Kazakhstan , and returned home for a bit, it was difficult to get updates on his progress. The last I had heard, he had returned to Nepal and was on his way to Everest ,


How not to suck

Image from Google The discussion on "Ice climbing is NOT rock climbing" has generally been useful; I learned a few things for sure, and I appreciate Jeff (the videographer) and the guys in the video taking it all well. I've talked to Jeff and the climbers, they're good people. I write this blog pretty much like I talk to my friends over morning coffee, and went a little overboard in not editing my comments a little. My sincere apologies to the Fall team for that, and I look forward to getting out with them next year. Now


Risk Versus Reward

Hey Steph! As I was packing for nepal I realized I didnt have a good book to read so I went to the Boulder Book store to see what I could find on my new hobby which had quickly turned into an obsession, Climbing. I started climbing last January and had quickly gotten hooked. It might [...]


Climbing Leads to Addiction?

I'm not usually a fan of Outside Magazine, but occasionally some decent writing ends up in there, and a recent article written by a friend of mine is one such exception. In it, Matt Samet chronicles how his obsession with climbing lead to anxiety and panic attacks that he medicated with drugs, and how that lead to a drug addiction that nearly claimed his life.


Italy is numero Uno, by stevie haston.

Went to northern Italy for work and pleasure again, both good. It rained again also, but the flowers were bright and plentiful and the mountains looked very big with their mantle of snow on. I did my normal run passed the Jorrasses and for a few moments had a bit of static as I looked up at an unclimbed couloir that was claimed and named as a route the other week. So three nice guys fail on a route, but decide to claim it anyway and there is a report in Planet Mountain and UKC web sites condoning it. Gee,


The dreams ahead

Image from Google Yeah! Even though I'm sitting typing this with a swollen knee that has kept me up most of the night, it's a big relief to have had my knee finally operated on. A further relief (as illustrated in the surgeons pics above) is that there was no arthritis and it was a simple meniscus cartilage tear. Obviously the recuperation required after operating is a big knock-down in terms of fitness but at least I can now get stuck into the process of building back up towards my climbing dreams. Talking of which, like


The Big 5’s

Any reader of this blog will have realised that I have an obsession with slate, and in particular the big and classic routes. Over the years I have climbed many of them all over the quarries and recently my partner in crime llion, has been robbing the limelight by getting ascents of Poetry Pink and [...]


Roger Strong The Shadow Reflection

Keywords:
Ro, Bo, pitches, Rob, rig, route, ice, Shadow, Merridy, Riptide

Image from Google A story by Roger Strong After recently becoming a father, I've found that my time management for work, trying stay fit, and balance the challenges of parenthood demands a lot more planning and patience than anything else I've experienced in my life. A couple months after my wife Merridy gave birth to Maya (she's now almost 8 months) I found myself in pathetic physical shape. Merridy was overly motivated to crack the whip and get back at it, but keeping up with the J.O.B. and learning to be a parent forced