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Longhope Direct

Approaching the guillotine flake before the crux pitch or the Longhope Direct. Photo: LW Images Starting into the crux Photo: LW Images Bringing Andy Turner up to the Guillotine belay. Photo: LW Images The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7


Major New Climbing Film

This year's major film project is about to commence. We are shortly heading to the island of Hoy with Dave Macleod and Andy Turner to film an ambitious ascent of the Long Hope Route on St John's Head. The Long Hope Route, Pic Dave MacLeod, Click to enlarge But first, a bit of history. The Long Hope Route was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill. They spent 7 days on the wall, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks, and several of the 23 pitches involved some aiding. A first free ascent was made


2010-08-20 19:42:00

Manu Flores a muerte like always!! Photos: Bernardo Gimenez Annita ready for climbing! Oliver from Venezuela With my baby Chaxiraxi. Nice photo of Bernardo Gimenez After one month just resting and no climbing the motivation is coming back. Usually for me the summer is time for swimming at the beach not for climbing but the last week I could see that climbing it´s possible too in summer! We have been climbing for a week on the beautiful, alpine walls near Briançon, France. It was fun climbing with my ...


Living in Longhope

Working on the headwall cracks, Longhope Route, Hoy with the 7pm from Stromness ferry heading by far below. If you can’t see me, click on the pic to see it full size. Photos: Claire MacLeod Walking off the hill from Kentallen last week after doing Durorband with unexpected ease, I felt that feeling of lightness, fitness and a readiness to climb something really hard that I’ve not felt so strongly since before climbing Echo Wall. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I really felt this. For sure,