from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5/6, Mucklehouse Wall I wrote this on the way home from our trip to Orkney, having had a great time. The final days were mostly spent gathering some really cool footage for our film about the Longhope route which we’ll prepare for the autumn. Ed Drummond revisiting St John’s Head. Photo Lukasz Warzecha For the last few days we also had a nice visit from Ed Drummond who stayed with us and walked back in to St John’s head to see his route again, 41 years after his original
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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109 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On June 21, Dave MacLeod, with his partner Andy Turner, freed an old aid route on the sea cliffs of Northern Scotland's Orkney Island. MacLeod's free version of The Longhope (8b/8b+) saw its first aid attempts in 1970, and after seven days and twenty-seven pitches, Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill reached the sea stack's summit. Later, Johnny Dawes, John Dunne, John Arran and Dave Turnbull made attempts to free it; though, none were completed in a single push. When MacLeod took to The Longhope, he completed it
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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46 views
from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Approaching the guillotine flake before the crux pitch or the Longhope Direct. Photo: LW Images Starting into the crux Photo: LW Images Bringing Andy Turner up to the Guillotine belay. Photo: LW Images The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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124 views
from Hot Aches Productions
This year's major film project is about to commence. We are shortly heading to the island of Hoy with Dave Macleod and Andy Turner to film an ambitious ascent of the Long Hope Route on St John's Head. The Long Hope Route, Pic Dave MacLeod, Click to enlarge But first, a bit of history. The Long Hope Route was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill. They spent 7 days on the wall, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks, and several of the 23 pitches involved some aiding. A first free ascent was made
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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67 views
from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Working on the headwall cracks, Longhope Route, Hoy with the 7pm from Stromness ferry heading by far below. If you can’t see me, click on the pic to see it full size. Photos: Claire MacLeod Walking off the hill from Kentallen last week after doing Durorband with unexpected ease, I felt that feeling of lightness, fitness and a readiness to climb something really hard that I’ve not felt so strongly since before climbing Echo Wall. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I really felt this. For sure,
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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137 views
