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Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 10 (Kalydna, Iannis & Spartacus)

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Bo, SPARTACUS, yo, Susy, nuts, Owen, hangers, anchors, 7b, Andy

Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which


Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian

Image from Google Sasha DiGiulian continues to amaze, this time repeating a 5.14d in the Red River Gorge Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Video Friday: Jonathan Siegrist On Pure Imagination (5.14d) 2nd Ascent Of Pure Imagination (5.14d) By Adam Taylor Pair Of Sasha DiGiulian Interviews Southern Smoke (5.14c) FFA By Sasha DiGiulian 5.14a Onsight By Sasha DiGiulian In The Red River Gorge Necessary Evil (5.14c) Repeated By


Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle

After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went a little better for him there: On day two, Julian onsighted Living in Fear (5.13d), shaking out in the worst possible places, and making the super-sustained testpiece look like 5.10, according to [...] Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Another Pair Of 5.14c Onsights For Adam


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 4 (Grande Grotta and Arhi)

Hey y'all! Let's get into the pics. Day five of climbing was in the mighty Grande Grotta and surrounds. This massive cave is the most famous sector on the island. Kurt's been experimenting with the GoPro capturing footage while climbing. I've often thought of headcam shots as "vomit footage" because the camera is swinging around wildly, but he's captured a few cool short grabs which I will certainly try to get into the trip video. This is a newish route in the Grande Grotta called Happy Girlfriend. It ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 2 (Kastelli and Poets)

First things first, come meet our team. Team Upskill 2011 On this climbing camp we are blessed with a diverse group with a wide range of ages and experience. From Luke and Kurt, for whom Kalymnos is their first true taste of climbing outside the gym, to Dave Reeve who has been climbing since the 1950s when it was all about swami belts, hemp rope and hip belays! Day one was all about getting familiar with limestone climbing. Though the weather was hot, we knew where to head. The picturesque crag of Kasteli


PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent

Image from Google PlanetMountain interviews Arnaud Petit about his ascent of the 5.13d sport route Black Bean on trad gear, touching on his motivations for doing so and whether or not he considered removing the bolts: No, I never considered this as Black Bean is a great sport route, established by Bruno Clément, really world-class and a true classic. [...] PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: PlanetMountain Interviews


Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian

Image from Google Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra Sasha DiGiulian from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: 5.14c For Sasha DiGiulian In Rodellar Southern Smoke (5.14c) FFA By Sasha DiGiulian Pair Of Sasha DiGiulian Interviews Good Weekend Of Bouldering For Adam Ondra Hard Sends For Sasha DiGiulian In Europe Another Pair Of 5.14c Onsights For Adam Ondra In Spain?! ...


Sasha DiGiulian in onsight mode

After making rather short work of Cosi fan tutte extension, 8c+, the other day. Sasha DiGiulian felt she'd better practice her onsighting skills. She is, after all, going to spend all her time on rock until she heads to the next WC at Puurs, where onsighting is the name of the game. Again, and still at Rodellar, Spain, she she proved she is in the shape of her life by onsighting the whole Maskoking up to the 3rd belay, 8b+, Eclipse Cerebral, 8b, and an 8a I don't know the name of. Sasha Di...


Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated By Adam Taylor

Image from Google In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact that low key local Adam Taylor repeated Lucifer (5.14c).  Taylor had previously done many of the Reds other hard routes like Pure Imagination (5.14d) and his route Golden [...] Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated By Adam Taylor from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: 2nd Ascent Of Pure ...


5.14c For Sasha DiGiulian in Rodellar

Image from Google Sasha DiGiulian clips the chains on her 3rd 5.14c of 2011 5.14c For Sasha DiGiulian in Rodellar from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Southern Smoke (5.14c) FFA By Sasha DiGiulian 5.14a Onsight By Sasha DiGiulian In The Red River Gorge Productive Day At Maple Canyon For Sasha DiGiulian Pair Of Sasha DiGiulian Interviews Hard Sends For Sasha DiGiulian In Europe Jonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge DiGiulian, Midtbø Win ...