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The Foundation of Modern Climbing: The 50th Anniversary of John Gill Ascent of theThimble

This year a remarkable anniversary in the sport of climbing has gone virtually unnoticed. I was particularly reminded of it when I sat down to talk with John Gill yesterday in Pueblo at a local coffee place. In the spring of 1961, over fifty years ago, according to an interview in the first edition of Master of Rock, John Gill did the first ascent of the Thimble Overhang, a 30-foot problem/route that became legendary in the history of world climbing. Climbed onsight solo over a very serious landing, it was


Do You Know Where Your Children Are? E9?

Image from Google This route escaped my day to day blogging from Pembroke... and so with a little time on my hands thanks to a Mello-enforced rest day, here it is. Pretty good timing actually as the route saw its first repeat courtesy of Neil Mawsons last weekend. Its always nice to see your routes getting attention, I hope more people follow in Neil's footsteps. Picture from the first ascent - David Simmonite Before I begin, I want to ask public opinion of the name of the route. Do You Know Where Your Children Are? is ...


The Three Cups of Tea Controversy Continues

Image from Google Over the past couple of weeks, the controversy surrounding Three Cups of Tea author Greg Mortenson has continued to roll through the mountaineering community and beyond. It all started when 60 Minutes ran an expose on Mortenson, alleging that he fabricated sections of his bestselling book and that there were major questions about how he ran his charitable organization, the Central Asia Institute . In that piece, author Jon Krakauer spoke out about Mortenson, and published his own story entitled Three Cups


Elephant Ivory Project Update:

Image from Google The past couple of weeks I've written a few posts about the Elephant Ivory Project , which is an expedition that is going on right now in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Explorers Trip Jennings and Andy Maser are on the ground in that country, and are preparing to gather elephant scat in hopes of creating a DNA map of the region that can be used to trace the illegal Ivory trade back to its origins. The team behind this expedition hopes to put an end to those activities once and for all. Last week when we


Specialized and McLaren Introduce Hot New Bike, I Drool Uncontrollably!

Yesterday Specialized and McLaren introduced a new bike that they say is the lightest, fastest, and most aerodynamic road machine ever built. It also happens to be the kind of bike that looks great as well, with speed written all over it. Constructed from carbon fiber, and designed to take on the winds of the open road, the new Specialized Venge has a carbon fiber frame that weighs in at just 950 grams, or just a shade over 2 pounds. It's origins date back to a rejected design from 2009, which saw the bike


The Saga of the Stove

It all started, I believe, when I decided to buy a twenty-pound propane cylinder to use for a Mr. Heater unit in the cabin and for cooking fuel while on this southwest tour. Back in October, I went to the Agway in New Paltz and they had only one unit left. I bought it, slightly upset at the price, which was something like $25. Unfilled. When I got the cylinder home, the first night I hooked it up to the Mr. Heater and could not make it work. Not a good omen. A few days later I called the company, assuming


Swarm Direct (v13?), Nalle Hukkataival

Image from Google At the end of Feb The Swarm (at the Secrets of the Beehive Area) received its obvious and long-awaited direct finish from visiting Finnish celebrity Nalle Hukkataival. Many others might have done this problem, but for the effort involved in rapping and cleaning the line and dealing with a known loose hold. The loose hold did break (so I heard), but only to leave another edge. As expected, the direct version checks in at roughly the same grade as the original and surely goes high on the list of top crimping


The Surest of Footed Goats

Alpine Ibex goats from Italy… …friggin’ mental beasts. Original found here .


Artifacts From Robert Falcon Scott Expedition To Be Auctioned

Christie's Auction House has announced that it will put relics left over from the doomed Robert Falcon Scott Antarctic expedition on the block this week, with skis, photos, scientific equipment, and other items all up for bid. According to this story , the artifacts actually belong to Canadian team member Charles Seymour Wright, who is the man who discovered Scott's frozen remains in a tent after the explorer and his four companions perished on the return trip from the South Pole. Scott and his team were


Teva Wants To Send You On A South Pacific Adventure

Image from Google Adventurous travelers looking for an escape in 2011 may have their wishes granted thanks to a new contest from Teva . The footwear manufacturer is looking to send one lucky winner, from the U.S., the U.K., the Netherlands, Korea, and Australia to Fiji for a bit of tropical adventure that is sure to be a once in a lifetime trip. To enter the contest, simply head over to TevaHouse.com and click on the flag of your country of origin. From there, fill out the online form, and you'll automatically be entered to