from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Paul Diffley captures the action from an airy filming position on the Longhope route. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in
published: 4 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On Friday 17th of Feb I’m running some daytime climbing technique masterclasses at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven as part of the Fort William Mountain Festival . The sessions will be 2 hours long and there will be 6 spaces on each session. I’ll give you a fairly intense couple of hours of climbing technique advice, coaching and inspiration! To take part you have to be a climber and be used to a climbing wall, but it doesn’t matter what level you are at. You’ll learn a lot whether you are climbing
published: 4 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Racked up for rigging the Longhope Route - more of Lukasz’ pictures of this route in my lectures next week. All of next week I’m travelling around doing talks each evening in a different part of the UK. Maybe I’ll see some of you?! Mostly I’ll be talking about the importance of taking on massive projects like the Long Hope route on Orkney. Big projects like that and a few other hard climbs I’ll show you involve a lot of doubt - you just don’t know if you’ve got enough to finally do them ...
published: 7 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Along with Lukasz Warzecha we are producing a limited edition of 100 fine art prints of his great image above showing the first ascent of The Longhope route, E10/11, Orkney. We thought it really grabs you as an inspiring climbing image of a special route, so it would be nice to make a print available. I have signed and numbered each print. The prints are A3, unframed with a white border and are printed on Ilford Pearl paper and are £75 (shipping worldwide as always).The actual print is not watermarked ...
published: 8 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5/6, Mucklehouse Wall I wrote this on the way home from our trip to Orkney, having had a great time. The final days were mostly spent gathering some really cool footage for our film about the Longhope route which we’ll prepare for the autumn. Ed Drummond revisiting St John’s Head. Photo Lukasz Warzecha For the last few days we also had a nice visit from Ed Drummond who stayed with us and walked back in to St John’s head to see his route again, 41 years after his original
published: 10 months ago
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from Climbing Narcissist
After years of sporadic work Dave MacLeod has finished off the first free ascent of Longhope Direct on St. John's Head in Orkney, Scotland Longhope Direct: 5.14ish Trad FA By Dave MacLeod from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain Dave MacLeod Repeats Walk Of Life More On Dave MacLeods 5.14b Free Solo New 5.14 Trad Line Near Boulder Matt Segal Sends New Trad Line Smart Went Crazy In Eldo More Updates From The Dawn Wall ...
published: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
The soaring crack pitch of Mucklehouse Wall, E5 6a Since completing the Longhope Direct, our trip on Orkney has been light of step but heavy of leg. The team are all feeling a tad fatigued from great efforts of rigging, filming and eating a lot of cake to replace all the calories that you seem to burn here. For me it’s been a lovely slow release and realisation that the route is done and I can wake up a little more to the sights and sounds of Hoy without the blinkering weight of focus on the project that
published: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Approaching the guillotine flake before the crux pitch or the Longhope Direct. Photo: LW Images Starting into the crux Photo: LW Images Bringing Andy Turner up to the Guillotine belay. Photo: LW Images The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7
published: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Lukasz’ mobile wifi service The team slog it It was nice when we got here Freida enjoyed the beach I’m writing this post which means our trip on Orkney is not going according to plan. Just now I should be uncoiling ropes at the foot of my project. Instead we are drinking tea, watching drizzle settle on the road outside and looking at ferry times to Kirkwall. On Hoy it seems very easy for a lot of time to pass. Day 1 was great, I had a session on the crux and felt fit and rigged about 400m of rope
published: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
I’m off up tomorrow (Ha! Today actually - another late night typing…) with Claire, Freida, Andy Turner, Diff, Lukasz and others for a good trip to Orkney. We’ll either be dodging fulmars on the cliffs or dodging showers and eating Stoats bars all day back at basecamp. Fingers crossed for the former. It’s going to be cool to go for a proper trip, so long as we get some weather of course. I’ve mostly been there with Claire or just by myself and for short trips, so I’m interested to see how things
published: 11 months ago
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