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Austrians Hunt Ice in Norway's Lyngen Alps

Over a two-week period in February, Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner traveled to Lyngenfjord in northern Norway to explore icefalls in the Lyngen Alps. The result was a series of impressive ascents, including two WI7s. Unsure of what they would find in Lyngen, they took a chance after speaking with Graham Austick, owner and manager of Lyngen Lodge. Austick provided old photos and arcane directions to the icefalls, many of which required two-hour approaches on snowshoes. Leichtfried and ...


Austrians Overcome X-rated Grade 7 Ice

Image from Google Two of the world's hardest ice climbs were established in Austria's Valle di Gastein this January. On the 4th, Austrians Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber made the first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall (WI7, 800m) in the Gasteinertal; three days later, Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of Centercourt (WI7+, 300m) in the nearby Anlauftal. The grade of Centercourt not only suggests that the climb is definitively Austria's hardest--it also puts it in a


Moonwalk: A Kilometer of Austrian Ice

After monitoring ice and snow on a big objective in Austria's Zillertal Alps for more than a year, Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner found ideal conditions last week. The result was Moonwalk (WI6 M7, 1000m), the longest icefall climbed to date in Austria according to Leichtfried. Early on the morning of December 3, Leichtfried and Purner skied to the base of the north-facing climb, located near the ridge that runs from Hohe Warte (2943m) to Sagwand (3227m). They climbed 13 pitches of varied ...