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Head Games

Today I was back at my old stomping ground , Quadrocks, Largs, to see how my head space was for getting on route's that I cannot afford to make mistakes on. I teamed up with Al (climbing partner for impending trip to Mournes) Alan Fox (photographer) and my mates Tam and Alec. The banter was good and the conditions fine for a spot of mid grade soloing. With my promise to myself and a few close others to stop soloing broken I set off up The Arete, E3 for my first route of the day and climbed in a focus ...


It Begins

Image from Google I've been trying a route at the Quadrocks for around 3 years now and went back this week hoping to make progress on it after all the improvement I've seen in my training recently, unfortunately my climbing doesn't always work like this and my last project at this great little crag will need to be climbed by someone else. Dot came down the following day and it was summer conditions and we worked our way through the best of my new routes down there and I picked up a nice sunburn! A lot of people slag the ...


Revenge of the Fallen

Today I managed a new route at my old haunt, The Quadrocks. I had noticed it last night while belaying friends on one of my routes on the main face. Early today Hector and myself headed up before the heat of the day really kicked in, even with factor 50+ I'm still burnt.I took a few shots on top rope then decided to go for it as it was getting ultra warm. The line goes up the right side of the existing E3 route The Arete and I graded it E3 5c. Last of the hard moves on first ascent of 'Revenge of the ...


The Auld Triangle

I eventually got back to proper climbing on Saturday and back to the old familiar feelings of fear, commitment and relief. FEAR:- Going back to soloing I had to deal with my fear after the fall. I knew I had to do this as soon as possible as I was beginning to wonder if I'd lost my bottle and without that I know I couldn't climb well. As I was psyching up for the solo I had a flashback to the fall and it was a real mental battle to erase that image from my mind but good mental exercise........... Dealing


The Start, "Why"??

Since I took up climbing ,and in particular soloing, I've been asked "why"?? I've spoke a bit about why I climb but I've never really thought about the real base reasons why I chose climbing over any other 'sport'. There are quite a few reasons I can think of offhand. I never really gelled with any mainstream sports at school and increasingly played truant to head to the moors and glens surrounding my hometown preferring long walks to long division. I always knew I was different to everyone else around me


Kev on TV

Kev Sheilds on The Benny Hill Show at The Quadrocks A Hot Aches film about climber, Kev Shields will be broadcast on Current TV this Monday night at 9pm. You may recognise Kev as one of the featured climbers in Committed Vol 1. The film follows Kev climbing in Scotland and Northern Ireland and examines his motivations for hard trad climbing. Current TV can be found here: SKY 193, Virgin 155