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V15 Comes To Vegas Courtesy Of Paul Robinson

Image from Google Paul Robinson returns to Vegas to open a potential V15 called Meadowlark Lemon V15 Comes To Vegas Courtesy Of Paul Robinson from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Paul Robinson On Red Rocks Bouldering 2nd Ascent Of Monkey Wedding (V15) By Paul Robinson More V14s For Paul Robinson In Fontainebleau Video Of Paul Robinsons Monkey Wedding (V15) Repeat Now Online The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) 2nd Ascent By Paul Robinson Lucid Dreaming AKA Rastaman Vibration Sit ...


Alex Biale, Rastaman Vibration

Image from Google This news has been covered elsewhere I know, but I want to give props to Alex Biale for his ascent of Rastaman Vibration (v12) on the Grandpa Peabody on December 15. It is interesting to note that, although this line was first climbed by Jared Roth back in 2002, it had never before been repeated! Indeed, Rastaman Vibration begins with one of the hardest moves at the 'Milks, a big move from a miserable pinch to gain a tiny right-hand crimp, feet swinging. Most people now know this move from images or video


First Blood

Image from Google Recently my job as a climbing magazine editor has been particularly frustrating. Despite a rather late start to the winter season it seemed everyone was making up for lost time with a string of very tough sounding new routes and repeats of several of last years hardest routes. Finally just before Christmas I was able to stop reading about everyone else's fun and get some action myself. I hooked up with Greg Boswell and James Dunn hoping for a few days high standard adventure, unfortunately as soon as I ...


Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a)

Image from Google 16-year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo has climbed yet another 5.15 with his repeat of La Rambla original in Siurana, Spain.  The route was first climbed before Oddo was even born by Alex Huber to a stopping point 3/4 up the wall, and it was subsequently extended by Ramón Julián Puigblanque.  The accepted grade for this route [...] Enzo Oddo Repeats La Rambla Original (5.15a) from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Possible 5.15a FA By Enzo Oddo Patxi Usobiaga


Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years

Image from Google DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years: My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cinnabons, and chocolate mousse.  My strengths are climbing in any conditions and whenever I can. Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years from [...] Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: 5.14c Repeats


Adam Ondra Talks Gioia

Image from Google PlanetMountain caught up with Adam Ondra yesterday after his repeat of Gioia to ask him the important questions like howd it feel, whats next and what he thinks about the grade: Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think its 8C+. Id compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to [...] Adam Ondra Talks Gioia from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Gioia (V16) Repeated By Adam Ondra Possible V16 From Adam Ondra In The Czech Republic


Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Nalle Hukkataival

Image from Google Nalle Hukkataival has repeated Fred Nicoles Esperanza (V14) in Hueco Tanks, making him at least the 16th person to do so.  Commenting about the problem on his 27crags ticklist he says that Esperanaza must be the most classic contrived drop-off in the word [sic].  Watch him climb up and then drop-off in the video here. Esperanza [...] Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Nalle Hukkataival from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On


Alpinist Redpoints Cover Misses Onsight

Image from Google S eptember 9, 2011 The staff has proofread and signed off on the cover for Alpinist 36. Art Director Michael Lorenz opens a file, hot keys "A" to change his cursor into a pointer tool and saves the files as a printable PDF. He uploads the file to the printer and continues work on the three magazines all due within the next forty-eight hours. September 16, 2011 12:15 p.m. "[expletive deleted]" - Michael Kennedy, Editor-in-Chief "[expletive deleted]" - Adam Howard, Editorial Director "[EXPLETIVE DELETED]" -


The Alpine Bouldering Season Wrap-up

Image from Google I think it is safe to say that the regular bouldering season is finished as of about 12 noon this last Tuesday. Currently most of the Front Range is under about 8 inches or more of snow. I made one last-ditch effort to try European Human Being on Monday afternoon but was unsuccessful, make that completely out of it altogether. Angie Payne, who was trying Freaks of the Industry, was also unsuccessful that evening. To top it off, just as I was at Bear Lake, having navigated every stretch of ice successfully


Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life

Image from Google According this 8a scorecard Australias Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamadas The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia.  Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade: V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, [...] Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Wheel Of Life Repeated By James