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Climbing coaching sessions at Fort William Mountain Festival

On Friday 17th of Feb I’m running some daytime climbing technique masterclasses at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven as part of the Fort William Mountain Festival . The sessions will be 2 hours long and there will be 6 spaces on each session. I’ll give you a fairly intense couple of hours of climbing technique advice, coaching and inspiration! To take part you have to be a climber and be used to a climbing wall, but it doesn’t matter what level you are at. You’ll learn a lot whether you are climbing


New route in Peak Cavern

Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions. The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else managed to get special permission to climb in the show cave Peak Cavern near Castleton right in the middle of the Peak District. The idea was for myself and Alan Cassidy to see if we could find a route out of it! Peak Cavern, otherwise known as 'The Devil's Arse' is one of


New route in Peak Cavern

Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions. The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else m...


Two new routes at Steall

The belay in sight at the end of Maxwell’s Demon 8b+, Steall during the first ascent. Pic by Steven Gordon. Steven has uploaded a nice gallery from the day on his site here. It’s not so often I get to the chain on two sport projects at Steall in one day, never mind two first ascents. Finally a break the humidity allowed me to get some redpoints in. First off, I took an interest in an old project climbing straight through the central cave, taking in the crux of Arcadia and breaking out onto the headwall


Sponsorship and "Extreme!" Sports

Image from Google "How do I get sponsored?" I get that question a lot. Usually there's a fresh-faced young person on the other end of the email, wanting to quit school and go climbing/kayaking/skateboarding/snowboarding/whatever for ever. And I fully support the idea of following your dreams, even if the dreams turn into nightmares. Sometimes it's a matter of crossing things off a life list until you find what you like. So even bad decisions can lead to good outcomes; it's like turning clay into a pot, sometimes you just


Gear Review: Patagonia R1 Hoody

The R1 Hoody looks a little goofy. People will wonder about the gray skirt that rings the torso and the strange two-tone sleeves. I scratched my head about that stuff, too. But in use, it all makes sense. That lower section of fabric is extra thin, R.5 stretch polyester that breaths well, won’t bunch under [...] Gear Review: Patagonia R1 Hoody is a post from: adventure journal


Lord of the Rings and Climbing

The Dave Graham problem Mithril 8b at Cresciano from Moon Climbing . Periodically I reread the classic fantasy trilogy by JRR Tolkien, The Lord of the Rings. For some reason, this year I was really struck by the impact this book has had on climbing. Granted that climbers can be a nerdy bunch, but a search of route names in the US and abroad shows a prevalence of borrowing that no other work of literature can compare to. In the quite literally Misty Mountains of New Hampshire, route after route was directly


Raging Waters

Image from Google The Pacific in winter is both boisterous and beautiful. Here are a few ways to experience its rollicking waysand wavesalong with some tips on where to whet your appetite. Big Break Looking for some bragging rights? Tell your friends that you kayaked Mavericks. OK, so you may have not kayaked the actual notorious surf spot but youll have come within a mile of it. Half Moon Bay Kayak Company has a variety of ways to explore the waters of Pillar Point, which sit in the shadow of the legendary big-wave ...


Tor des Géants by Stevie Haston

Photos credit to Lorenzo Belfrong How would you like to run for 330 km? You probably wouldn’t, no sensible person would. Would you like to do 24,000 meters of ascent and decent? No definitely not, you would have to be out of your mind, right. The Tor de Geants is a race, or event, that takes in the 330km and 24,000meters of up and had 380 entrants of all ages, who thought it might be fun. Surprisingly they all seemed fairly normal to me, a bit passionate perhaps, very fit and eager, but no they weren’t


Exercise balls are stupid, "Core Strength"

My ideal training environment has the following in it: Some sort of ice climbing simulator thing (Plice). A place to run around outside. Rings, both Rock Rings and gymnastic rings, place to hang 'em. Some weight and a bar. A stylie set of Olympic bumper plate weights would be nice, but I've got a bunch of weights we got at garage sales for pennies. They work fine. Anything after this is gravy. Really. Exercise balls, machines, etc. etc. are somewhere between comfortable accessories and shiny garbage. It's