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King’s Canyon, Tehipite Dome, Tehipite Sanction, by Rob Pizem

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California) Kings Canyon National Park, Tehipite Dome, Tehipite Sanction. By Rob Pizem, AAC California sunshine, stable weather, and perfect Sierra granite were the ingredients for our new route, Tehipite Sanction (5.12 C1), on Tehipite Dome. The massive south face and upper dome rises out of the majestic and lonely Kings Canyon. [...]


Rob Pizem - A Year in Review 2010

Image from Google By Rob Pizem It was another busy year for me and my family. I was fortunate enough to stay safe and healthy for most of it. The year began knowing that my wife was going to be completing her teaching degree and that we would be looking for work where ever we could find it. Jane, who is always ready for an adventure, was excited for a possible move from Denver to anyplace USA. By late March, we had each secured jobs teaching high school in Grand Junction, Colorado. The excitement grew as our house went up


The Tehipite Sanction

Image from Google The Tehipite Sanction by Rob Pizem Tehipite dome lies in the northern portion of Kings Canyon National Park, about a mile away from the Sierra National Forest boundary. But that is not where this story begins. I had planned on a summer adventure in Alaska where my partners and I would have to trek through the bush, cross icy rivers, navigate unknown glaciers, and finally end up at an enormous unclimbed big wall. We would make base camp and establish an amazing new free route on the virgin stone. ...


Interviews With Peter Mortimer, Dave Graham & More

A couple of interesting interviews. One with Peter Mortimer from Sender Films and the other a group discussion on ClimbTalk radio between Rob Pizem, Chad Greedy, Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell. Interviews With Peter Mortimer, Dave Graham More from ClimbingNarc.com Related posts: Interesting Peter Mortimer Interview Updated Dave Graham Blog Dave Graham UK Interview Dave Graham Doing What Dave Graham Does: Sending V13s Dave Graham Interview Dave Graham Dreamtime Yet Another 5.14d For Dave Graham Keepin It ...


Matt Samet Interview Part 2

Image from Google In this installment, Matt Samet describes what the job of editor-in-chief was like. For anyone who has wondered what goes on behind the scenes in print media, this is a great introduction to the realities of the position. I know it certainly opened my eyes. Especially important is his point that with ever-decreasing staff levels, running the magazine was more and more a solo operation, making it difficult to distance himself from comments made about the magazine. I think readers will find Matt’s remarks


Green River Trip 2009

Image from Google A story by Rob Pizem Most of the time when you are preparing for a climbing trip, you are pouring over guide books, looking at photos and talking to everyone that you know about what climbs you should try when you get there. The green river trip that I just returned from was just the opposite. There were no recorded ascents (just rumors), there were no developed areas (just miles of cliff line), and you needed a boat or 4x4 to access everything. I was on the road during my fall break from teaching with a


Rob Pizem and friends explore Norway

Keywords:
Ari, walls, one, route, hour, Andy, Norway, Brian, Mike, end

Image from Google Five Guys, Granite Bigwalls, Two Weeks and By Rob Pizem Photos by Andrew Burr Every time that I saw Brian "something", while climbing at Rifle, he was crushing routes, catching something with his son or belaying his wife.  Ari was a friend from when we went to the Colorado School of Mines and has always been a longtime inspiration for me.  Mike has been a partner through and through and was the brains behind this adventure.  Andy, well he just always wants to go on these trips and take incriminating ...


Americans Free Climb New Route in Norway

Image from Google Mike Brumbaugh, Ari Menitove, Andrew Burr, Brian Heppner and Rob Pizem have free climbed a 1,000-foot new route called Man Hands (IV 5.11) literally right off the beach in northwestern Norway. The Man Hands wall is located on one of the many, remote and mountainous islands about a 15 minute boat ride from mainland Lofoton... Taken from: Climbing Magazine .


Rob Pizem - Zion

Image from Google Rob Pizem climbing in Zion for The Continuum Project - coming Fall 2009


Mud Wrestling in Utah

Keywords:
Jason, pitches, aid, rocks, bolt, cam, slow, route, loose, one

Image from Google The First Free Ascent of West Side Story on Cottontail in the Fisher Towers, Utah A story by Rob Pizem Late in the afternoon on March 22, 2009, Jason Hass and I hiked over to the base Cottontail tower and cockily dropped our gear, looked up and thought to ourselves, "I hope were not wasting our spring break trying to free this route and I really hope neither of us gets hurt while trying". Little did we know what the week would bring us as we turned our faces red with dust and mud while we clawed our way