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Climbing and the Olympics: Will Climbing Lose its Soul?

Image from Google About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...


Explorers Club Follow-Up: Clarification On Yesterday's Story

Yesterday I posted another story in the ongoing saga of the internal disputes that are taking place inside the Explorers Club , the 108 year old institution that has been at the forefront of exploration and adventure since its founding. In the story I quoted a New York Post article which stated that EC member Josh Bernstein , who also happens to be on the Club's Board of Directors, was "censured and fined" because he accepted tickets to the Club's annual Patron's Dinner from the event's sponsor, Rolex .


Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston.

Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston. Trad climbing is certainly doomed from what I have seen lately, the once and only way to climb is now just a circus side show! The free climbing ethic grew very slowly over many years until it became established in its proper form in the 1970s, there were many fight arguments and discussions along the way. There were also great climbers and some great impassioned ascents that showed that it was all possible. Out of the many examples


The Microadventures With A Dash Of Science

Image from Google Now, with only 3 days to go until I leave for Nepal; and with everything such as packing, acquiring medicine, filling out visa forms and even cleaning my boots still dirty from Lenin, still to do, I used some intuition and decided to utilise some precious time writing another truly outstanding blog. I then scrapped that idea and wrote the one below instead. Since the expedition to Lenin, fortunately I have managed to regroup, and now partly understand the reasons why the expedition wasn’t as successful


Century Crack 2 by Stevie Good Job Haston

Image from Google WARNING : Don’t read this if you are not a nerdy climber! Mine is bigger than yours! I had a couple of Emails late last from America concerning the ethics of Trad-climbing and crack climbing, mainly from older climbers or people with a strong foundation in climbing on gear. Climbing on gear is very special in that it allows you to protect your route without anything being in place and thus ‘clean’, it is in fact termed clean climbing sometimes, and it also allows you at its best to do new routes ...


Rules and Boots!

Image from Google The 2011 Scottish Tooling Series rules have been updated. I have highlighted the main changes below: The full rules can be viewed here: 1. Rock Boots Following much discussion we have decided to allow rock shoes to be used while also allowing use of Outdoor boots (big boots) and fruit boots the choice is [...]


Boot Camp

Image from Google Fruitboots in use STS 2009 We at STS towers had a big meeting earlier on this evening and got into the heated topic of boot Rules! When Pete and I took on the organisation last year we wrote the rules down for the first time and put a lot of though into them to try [...]


Inofficial dyno world record by Alex Puccio

During the Västervik International Boulder Meet, there was a dyno competition. The plan was to make it an official one, according to all the rules and regulations, but unfortunately getting hold of the official Bendcrete dyno holds turned out to be a major problem... The competition was a success regardless, with quite a few spectacular results as well as party tricks. For example, Jocke Berglund, who ended up winning, managed to both dyno straight up to the top of the wall and do a 360. Don't...


Meru – William Butler Yeats

Civilisation is hooped together, brought Under a rule, under the semblance of peace By manifold illusion; but mans life is thought, And he, despite his terror, cannot cease Ravening through century after century, Ravening, raging, and uprooting that he may come Into the desolation of reality: Egypt and Greece, good-bye, and good-bye, Rome! Hermits upon [...]


VIDEO: Steve McClure - Norway DWS Splash Down

Steve McClure recently attended a Deep Water Soloing competition in Norway, and came in fifth place, but he did win the best splash down! Steve reported on the event on his Petzl blog: "Myself, Ben Heason, Gav Symonds and Aid Baxter warmed up ready for a plunge. All pretty used to DWS, this 10-12m wall wasn't phasing us. The rule was simple: everyone had to go in, even if they topped, there was no way round the back! This is one of the rules I'd insisted, along with there being no...