from The Adventure Blog
The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre , who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all. On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be ...
published: 4 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization
published: 4 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their
published: 4 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of
published: 5 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin. First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then,they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of
published: 5 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead. According to the official expedition website , the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear
published: 5 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
The winter season will certainly be an interesting one this year. Not only are the Russians taking on K2 , but now ExWeb is reporting that Lonnie Dupre will return to Denali, where he hopes to make the first solo winter ascent of that mountain in January. This will be round 2 for Dupre and Denali, with the mountain winning their first bout last year. Last year, Dupre traveled to Alaska in the coldest and darkest portion of winter just to attempt to scale the 6193 meter (20,320 ft) peak at the most ...
published: 5 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Last week I posted a story about an all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on the Mountain of Mountains this winter when they attempt to climb K2. Now, as the 16-man team prepares to depart for Pakistan, we get a few more details on the climb courtesy of ExWeb . In my original post, I wrote that the Russians were about to attempt the impossible, and while that is a bit of hyperbole, I do believe that a K2 winter ascent is perhaps the most challenging climb in mountaineering. It is a significant
published: 5 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Peak Lenin It’s now the beginning of September and after a highly eventful and emotional past 4 weeks, I have another long overdue blog to write, whilst I try my upmost to avoid getting burnt in this scorcher of a British summer. It does seem I have been slightly unlucky with the weather, missing the ‘real’ summer this April with a long revision period, however my luck changed during late July and early August as I ventured to Kyrgyzstan, a country famous for..?! What followed was the trip of a ...
published: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
O n August 15 Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov climbed a new route on the north face of Peak Pobeda (7439m). Their route Dollar Rod (6b) climbs to the right of the 1982 Smirnov route, Dollar's Route (6b) and to the left of Verblud (6b, 65 degrees, Gorelik-Sokolov, 2009), a climb for which Gleb Sokolov and Vitaly Gorelik were nominated for the 2009 Piolet d'Or. Urubko and Durov climbed their route between August 10 and August 15 through inclement weather. On their second day the pair became mired in sixty to
published: 9 months ago
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