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Winter Climb Update: More Expeditions Head To Pakistan

Image from Google The Russian team attempting to climb K2 this winter will soon be joined in the Karakoram by a few other teams who are setting their sights on other big peaks in Pakistan. All told, there will soon be two teams on Gasherbrum I and two others on Nanga Parbat, all of whom will be attempting to notch first winter ascents on those mountains. A Polish squad led by Artur Hajzer is amongst those hoping to top out on GI this season. They team is now en route to the mountain, where they expect winds to be in excess


Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

Image from Google While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their


Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

Image from Google I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of


Himalaya 2011: Missing Gear On Kangchenjunga

Image from Google While much of the news out of the Himalaya the past few days has been centered around Everest, which is typical for this time of the year, climbers on other peaks are arriving in their respective base camps as well. But what do you do when you arrive in BC only to find that your porters haven't arrived and none of your gear is in place? That is exactly what a Russian squad is facing at the moment. ExWeb is reporting that there are nine climbers on the expedition and that they've now bee in Base Camp for


Update On Lonnie Dupre: Still Waiting On The Weather

Image from Google Last week I posted a story about polar explorer and climber Lonnie Dupre, who had set out for Alaska where he hopes to make a solo summit of Denali in January, something that has never been done before. At the time, Lonnie was stuck in Talkeetna, waiting for the weather to clear so he could hop a flight to Base Camp. Fast forward a few days, and he's still there and still waiting. According to the latest updates to his blog, Dupre is making the most of his time in town by preparing his gear and supplies


Russians Add Major Line to Cholatse

News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.--Ed. A Russian team has made a significant addition to the north face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal's Khumbu region. On March 20, after a week on the wall, Sasha Gukov, Viktor Koval and Valery Shamalo finished off a new route, which sweeps up the 1400-meter face to connect with the ...


"Unclimbed": Seven Years Later

Image from Google I've just been editing a story for the American Alpine Journal about the first ascent of the north face of Chang Himal in Nepal, by British climber Andy Houseman. Andy said his climb, with fellow Brit Nick Bullock, was inspired in part by an article called "Unclimbed," published in 2003 in Alpinist 4 , in which various writers identified nine great unfulfilled challenges in the alpine world. Which, in turn, inspired me to dig up the article and see how climbers have done over the last six and a half years.