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Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 6 (Spartacus & Panorama)

The two final climbing days were upon us. Spartan Wall offered some new slabby warmups up to 35m in length, and Ruth and Dave decided to stay on here while the rest of the crew headed uphill to Spartacus. Ruth gingerly pads up a huge tongue of rock on Spartan Wall. Kurt bags Yo-Yo 6a+. A newie on Spartan Wall. An odd sight at the cliff! Spartacus hosts a great collection of routes in an orange bowl and our team ate them up. Harakiri 6b+, Tales Of Greek Heroes 6b+ and Les Amazones 6c were all dispatched as


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 5 (Ghost Kitchen and Odyssey)

Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 4 (Grande Grotta and Arhi)

Hey y'all! Let's get into the pics. Day five of climbing was in the mighty Grande Grotta and surrounds. This massive cave is the most famous sector on the island. Kurt's been experimenting with the GoPro capturing footage while climbing. I've often thought of headcam shots as "vomit footage" because the camera is swinging around wildly, but he's captured a few cool short grabs which I will certainly try to get into the trip video. This is a newish route in the Grande Grotta called Happy Girlfriend. It ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 2 (Kastelli and Poets)

First things first, come meet our team. Team Upskill 2011 On this climbing camp we are blessed with a diverse group with a wide range of ages and experience. From Luke and Kurt, for whom Kalymnos is their first true taste of climbing outside the gym, to Dave Reeve who has been climbing since the 1950s when it was all about swami belts, hemp rope and hip belays! Day one was all about getting familiar with limestone climbing. Though the weather was hot, we knew where to head. The picturesque crag of Kasteli


Kevin & Larry back from the Ruth

Image from Google AMS Guide Kevin Mahoney Larry returned yesterday on a beautiful day. Welcome back guys from a big adventure in the Ruth Glacier.


Weather break

Image from Google Guides Joey and Dan flew in this after noon with Rutger to start their adventure. Their original plan was to head out to the far SW corner of Denali National Park, but at least 8 feet of snow had accumulated in the last few days. They changed their plans and went to the Ruth Glacier. The Ruth should be considered one of the 7 wonders of the world. With granite walls close to a mile tall, it attracts climbers from all over the world. Rutger is psyched !! Kevin and Geoff also headed into the Ruth glacier.


Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 13 (Spartacus, Seabreeze, Katherina, Odyssey)

Today, our second group of climbers flew out of Kalymnos. As we wave goodbye through the glass window at the Kalymnos airport, Sam and I are saying goodbye to our last links to Australia for the next ... who knows? But let's step back a few days. After the big day at Ghost Kitchen, the group's seventh climbing day was scheduled for Spartacus (aka Spar-ta-klus). This big orange bowl is one of my favourite sectors on the island because of its looong routes. I quickly ran up Tales of Greek Heroes 6b+ to set a


Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 12 (Ghost Kitchen)

Group discussion this morning was on the mental game. What are those self limiting beliefs that are floating around in your noggin which are stopping you progressing your climbing? How might they be serving you? How can you change them? Fear of falling may be in there, but often it's only a part. What about expectations? What about worrying what others think? So we discussed the importance of training mental toughness, why falls are a non-avoidable ingredient in climbing progression and some strategies we


Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 11 (Odyssey)

Image from Google Welcome to the fifth day of climbing for this group here in sunny Kalymnos. Sam on the walk-in to Odyssey, while Ruth cranks in the background. Funny stuff with Ruth today on the slippery and tricky Femio 6a+ (pictured above). It's stiff - no gimme for the 6a+/19 grade. Because of its position it gets tons of traffic and is therefore super polished. Ruth gave it one burn and had plenty of rests and claimed "There's no way I'm leading this, it's just too slippery!" After sorting things out on toprope a ...


Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 10 (Dolphin Bay)

We awoke to another perfect day. After our big day at Poets , we aimed to downshift and do some volume. On the menu was the rather unassuming looking Dolphin Bay . Located on a headland near Kastelli , this white marble cliff requires either a steep scramble on scree, or an abseil to access. We chose the abseil for some extra spice. Some of the group hadn't abseiled for ages, so we did some rigging practice and set up different methods with autoblocks, Grigris, ATC's, munter hitches etc. All good learning.