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Saser Kangri II first ascent by Richey, Swenson and Wilkinson

In summer 2011 American alpinists Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson summited the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world, Saser Kangri II (7518m). Trip report and questions with Steve Swenson.


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakorams Saser Kangri II (7518m), the worlds second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunchang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine [...]


Saser Kangri II—The Descent

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. After I had a sleepless night of hacking and [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 4—The Summit

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. August 24.  We only had four pitches of technical [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 3

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. On the morning of day 3 we were already [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 2

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. We knew that achieving our goals on our second day on the [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 1

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. I was uncertain still about my health, but on [...]


Mountain Hardwear Summer Expeditions

Image from Google Earlier in the week, Mountain Hardwear announced a host of expeditions for the summer, with a number of climbers heading off to the Karakoram to take on some of the big peaks there. The gear company has some excellent sponsored athletes under its banner, and has always been ready to help them go after some big goals. Here's a few of the things they have planned in the weeks ahead: Saser Kangri II: Freddie Wilkinson, along with Mark Richey and Steve Swenson, will make an attempt on the second tallest ...