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Pan, Piano, Perfo, Verdon, rive gauche, des ouvertures visionnaires

Keywords:
ne, Les, Je, voie, ans, Bien, Pour, Des, pas, nerveusement

Posted By Charlotte Durif the 2011-09-12 Verdon - Grotte de Galetas, on est le 18 aot 2011, il est un peu moins de 11h30, lorsque j'entame mon 11me run dans Les 3 P... (pour Pan, Piano, Perfo). Cette cration de Bruno Clment est une longue voie en plafond de grosse conti physique avec deux crux bien techniques et une section trs rsi limite bloc. Cette voie a t enchaine par Adam Ondra en 2010 et Sbastien Bouin en 2011, valide par ces deux messieurs 9a. La date et l'heure que j'ai donnes au dbut sont ...


Mountain Academy 2 : a wonderful week, a sweet team and some awesome climbing routes !

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-05-12 A few days ago, I met up with the Mountain Academy team for a wonderful climbing trip in the Vercors, a beautiful massif South of Grenoble. The Mountain Academy has been set up by Jerome Blanc-Gras and Mountain Hardwear. The idea was to gathered passionated climbers from all over Europe who wants to share their passion and learn more about climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering. Among all the climbers who submitted, nine were selected to be in part of the team. And


Alpine Frustration, Rock climbing, and a young man called Asher

Jurgen on top of the Aig Marbree Its been a strange couple of weeks out here in the Alps, the weather has been less than prefect and so its been lots of travel here and there. But its been good fun and we've got loads of climbing done. First up there was Jurgen and Seb who had their sights set on the Matterhorn. A big snow dump early in the week put pay to any Matterhorn ideas, so we spent a few days up high climbing the Cosmiques and Traverse of the Entreve before a couple of great days rock climbing. The


More Alpine Fun

Image from Google The summer seems to effortlessly cruise pass here in the Alps, its almost August yet it feels like we have only just left spring time. Its been busy times for Dream Guides and even busier times for me personally with lots of traveling to and from the UK. This week however I've been Alps based and climbing with Seb and Jurgen, so far we've had a great time, everyday we've been out getting stuff nailed!! The night before last was quite an amusing evening. We were all in the Torino hut when John Barry and ...


News from the Empire and beyond

Some call it real climbing, some call it scary shit. I call it trad. I'm not sure this is a very accurate description though... I mean, traditional normally means following tradition, which means the transmission of customs or beliefs from generation to generation. Now, what customs or beliefs would that be? 100 years ago, climbers just wanted to get to the top, by any means necessary. What we call trad , is rather avant-garde if you ask me. Oh, you didn't? Sorry. Let's get on with it UK Climbing reports:


Ben Heason Repeats Meshuga - E9 6c

On Saturday 27th March Ben Heason headpointed the Black Rocks test-piece Meshuga E9 6c. “Meshuga is one of the few remaining grit routes I was motivated to headpoint, and I'd wanted to climb it for years; that photo of Seb on the cover of “Hard Grit”, a constant, nagging reminder..."


Three days in Heaven

Its not often that everything falls into place and 'one of those days' occur but Friday was one of them. After almost freezing to death the day before at Le Reposoir I made the decision to head back to Italy where Seb, Nigel, and Rob from PMSS, Neil Brodie and myself had been on Wednesday climbing. Nigel trying to look composed before the next pitch Despite the cold on Thursday we had done two great days Ice Climbing, the 3 PMSS crew were firing on all cylinders even though this was the first Ice since ...


THAT WAS THE WEEK THAT WAS!!

Keywords:
Brad, Gav, days, Cogne, Seb, climbing, Rob, Oli, Darren, Ali

Patri in Cogne Italy. Its been a long week that has held a number of simply amazing days on the hill. It all began on Monday with Seb and Rob with some ice climbing at Chaterlard , followed by one of the best days so far this season. We all went to Cogne in search of that special Italian Chocolate, instead we found one of those days. Its hard to describe a day that is just so magical, its not just one aspect but many that merge together to create some thing that approaches heaven. Seb and Rob were great


The Alps has it all, 3 weeks of fun and games.

Time seems to fly by sometimes, well that’s my excuse for not posting in 2 or 3 weeks and I’m sticking to it. As ever it’s been a pretty busy time for us here at Dream Guides, mixing work and play, so much so that its kind of hard to think what we have been up to. It started (I think) with the PMSS group with our friend Seb Chivers and his work pals. I spent 3 days climbing Ice Falls with Seb and Nigel in and around Cham, meanwhile Guy was skiing the Valley Blanche with some of the others from the