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Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

Image from Google I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of


Winter Climb Updates: Russians On Their Way To BC, Lonnie in Talkeetna

Image from Google The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin. First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then,they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of


K2 Winter Update: Off To Skardu By Bus

Image from Google The all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on K2 this winter, have started the second leg of their journey. After arriving in Pakistan last weekend, they've been busy organizing their gear and planning the logistics of the expedition. After completing that process, they have now shipped their gear to Skardu, which serves as the gateway to the Karakoram, and they had hoped to hop a flight to that city as well. But weather delays have grounded air travel in the region, so they've elected to go by


K2 Winter Update: Russians In Pakistan

Image from Google One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead. According to the official expedition website , the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear


Dempster, Kennedy Nab Charakusa FA

Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy recently made the first ascent of Pakistan's Hassan Peak (6300m). Hassan Peak is located in Pakistan's Charakusa Valley just north of K6. The pair climbed the peak via it's previously attempted west face overcoming difficulties of WI5, M5 on their two day ascent. Steve Swenson, Hans Mitterer and Raphael Slawinski attempted Hassan Peak in 2005, but retreated from dangerous conditions 300 meters below the summit. Dempster told Alpinist.com that Hassan Peak as seen from base


Operation Broad Peak

So after a manic few days packing, sorting things, saying goodbyes and finally getting to the airport we made it to Pakistan. We're now in Skardu after 40 hours of driving up the Karakoram highway due to our flight (and at least the subsequent 3 days flights) being cancelled. It wasn't really a road we wanted to drive but there was little choice, otherwise waiting at least week and losing valuable time acclimatizing.. Despite being only a short distance the road is very poor, huge drops, landslides and ...


Karakoram 2011: A New Season Begins

Image from Google With the 2011 Himalaya climbing season now officially in our rear view mirror, it is time for the world's top climbers to start focusing on the Karakoram and the challenges that come along with climbing in that range. Stretching across Pakistan, India, and China, the Karakoram range contains some of the most challenging peaks on the planet. It is home to one of the highest concentrations of mountains found anywhere as well, which makes it a popular summer mountaineering destination, which is about the only


Broad Peak - Itinerary

www.broadpeak2011.co.uk Things are starting to come together now, we had a "trial" pack at the weekend. We're still resolving issues over what to cargo to Islamabad and what to try and get through on excess baggage but we're getting there. Here's our detailed itinerary: Itinerary of “ British Broad Peak Expedition 2011 28 June/Day 01 -Arrival in Islamabad, Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan.Over night in Hotel. 29 June/Day 02 - Fly to Skardu 30 June/Day 03 - Reserve day 01 July /Day 04 -Rest and ...


Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Image from Google Simone and Denis are halfway to C2 on GII and going up. Broad Peak’s team leader Artur Hajzer believes they might try to push for the top. The Poles in turn have fixed the route to C2 on Broad Peak. GI climbers are in Skardu and it seems that Nanga Parbat will remain unclimbed; the [...]


Karakorum 2010: Christian Stangl Gives Details on K2 Summit

Image from Google As usual, Explorers Web has some details on Christian Stangl's K2 summit last week. As was reported on Friday , the Austrian mountaineer claimed the only successful climb of the mountain this season following a 70-hour alpine style solo push to the top. At the time, we didn't know much other than that Christian has summitted, with a promise of more info to come. Turns out it was quite the ordeal. According to ExWeb, Christian initially set out at 5 PM local time on Tuesday, going up the Abruzzi Spur. He