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In and Out on Huntington

Image from Google In a 23 hour push starting early March 19, Jason Stuckey and John Frieh made the second winter ascent of Mt Huntington in the Alaska Range (12,240'). The pair arrived on the Tokositna Glacier on March 18, and climbed the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk: V 85 degrees, 3,250'). They returned to camp by 5am on the 20th, and were picked up four hours later. All told the pair spent less than 48 hours in the range. "Smash and Grab." The first winter ascent of Huntington was performed on March 12, 2007 in a 15


PHOTOS: More rock climbing and Mallorca DWS!

Image from Google It has been a very busy month, with climbing all over the place. Im currently soaking up the sun in Mallorca with a big team Deep Water Soloing on the annual trip called Smash it in. Other lovely places  I have been in the last few weeks include Chapel Head in the Lakes, Yorkshire [...]


Diablo Traverse: Haley, Schaefer Link Devil's Thumb Massif

Mikey Schaefer and I have just come back to Seattle from a quick, fantastic trip to the Stikine Icecap region, on the BC-Alaska border, near Petersburg, Alaska. I had been planning to visit Devil's Thumb for years, but until now never made it to this beautiful mountain range. Our objective was a complete traverse of the Devil's Thumb massif, climbing over the summits of the Witches Tits, Cat's Ears Spires, and finally Devil's Thumb itself. Like the Torres Traverse to Ermanno Salvaterra, this traverse ...


2009-08-29 11:15:00

I woke to find a slightly damp ground that had obviously been drying for a few hours, which filled me with hope that the forecast rain had come and passed. Just like winter lift passes; I had the option of buying a full day or afternoon ticket. I figured I would make around 4 or 5 runs before getting too tired so waited until just after midday to leave the house. Whilst getting ready, I ummmd and aahhhd about what protection I should take, and was very undecided about wearing my Alpine Stars Protection ...


Black Diamond In Smash and 'Krab' Raid

Diamond Heist Stoppered: Employees keep cam, as thief steals computers. "The manager explained that the company does not really deal in diamonds or precious metals..." The Black Diamond headquarters in Salt Lake, USA were robbed by a man wielding an ice-axe earlier this month. The man snuck in at night, seemingly under the impression that the company dealt with diamonds and other precious stones. When he discovered his mistake he collected various items including ice-screws and some...


Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 5: J-Bay & finale

Keywords:
Piper, 2kg, Glenn, win, J-Bay, Erik, anchor, boat, proj, Time

It was Greek feast night last night so we were sleeping like Gods. It’s 3:30am. Not a creature is stirring. Suddenly out of the inky blackness…screaming, yelling! Piper races past me, “Get up dude, we’ve hit another boat!”. I’m still mostly asleep, and I stumble out onto the bow. Holy crap where are we? We’ve drifted heaps and have rammed another houseboat. The party boys on the other boat are still awake and nicely toasted. “Are we moving or are they moving?” They push us back with a ...