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Smiths Route, Ben Nevis

Image from Google There was a really good atmosphere up on Ben Nevis today, its always great when you see lots of people you know. Kenny , John and I headed up into Observatory gully with quite an open mind. Word had got round that some ice routes were quite fat. They were not wrong. There were several teams ahead and behind us, all heading up into the same area. At first it looked like 3 teams were heading for Smiths but fortunately they all went their separate ways. One them headed up Tower Gully (I), Luke and Conrad went


A claggy day on the Ben

It was claggy day on Ben Nevis today. At this level the surface of the old wet snowpack had a bit of a crust, and was very soft underneath. There had been a little snow on top of this overnight which was turning damp through the day as the freezing level rose. There were a couple of teams of climbing on Tower Scoop which looked in okay condition. Another team was seen heading further up into the mist. I am not sure where they got to or how much ice remain on the likes of Smiths route.


Observatory Buttress & Smiths

Minus 3 Gully - Photo Paul Diffley/Hotaches This is a two minute blog… I’m due to leave three minutes ago to head back up the allt a mhullin for a rendezvous at the hut 7.30am to head into Point 5 Gully. Neither Andy or myself have done it before and it looks in good condition. Which will make a nice change from yesterday’s thin ice on Smiths Route and Observatory Buttress, complete with pretend ice screws in much and wherever there was solid ice it broke off in huge dinner plates, giving the film


Day 3 - minus three gully

Donald was off like a shot soloing up slingsbys chimney early doors to rig ropes down minus three this morning. The crux out of the cave had just enough ice to make it interesting. Above, three pitches of Perfect neve led to north east buttress. I definitely wouldn't have liked to be step cutting out of the cave. Speaking of which, some folk were asking why we weren't step cutting ourselves this week. Neither of us have ever tried it before and a week of grade Vs probably wouldn't be the place to start. By


Good Ice

Image from Google Just to let you know winter is still hanging on. These pics were taken on Saturday 18 th on Raeburns Easy with near perfect snow and ice, people on Number 2 reported perfect neve from bottom to top Ian and Nigel have been trying to get this route in good condition when they have been about for three years now and it was third time lucky. Thanks guys. Yes, I thought that any frost would produce near perfect conditions. I might just try a late trip up Smiths Route myself before it all falls down. Smiths and


Tower Ridge and the Daleks

Image from Google Exterminate?? Well done Childrens Trust Just beyond Tower Gap today Plenty of thick blue ice high on Ben Nevis today. Some teams seen heading into Point Five Gully today. Topping out on the Little Tower, plastered in good snow. Happy birthday Alistair. Descending Number Four Gully today. Blue ice on Smiths Route, Gardyloo Buttress. Thanks to Kevin Rutherford for the photos above


Lochaber conditions

The last couple of weeks we have been extremely cold so many ice routes have been in. Guy has been climbing on the Ben and Aonach Mor, taking advantage of the good ice conditions. Jamie B has been guiding on Ben Nevis and in Glencoe and climbing personally on the Ben and Aonach mor. Big Al has been balancing lots of climbing and work with spending time with his new son. Routes such as Point 5, Green Gully, Comb gully, South Gully, North Gully, Smiths route, Tower ridge, Tower Scoop etc the list goes on.