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Kutcher Takes Ouray 2012

Mild weather and thick ice welcomed more than 3,000 climbers from around the world to the 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival this weekend at the Ouray Ice Park in southwest Colorado. An early season of cold nights and warm afternoons created ideal ice conditions in the park's flooded box canyon, which set the stage for the festival's Elite Mixed Climbing Competition. Nathan Kutcher, in his first appearance at the festival, took home the championship title, beating the only other competitor to top out, Andres


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistan's Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a twenty pitch route (5.11d, A2) in six days alongside their teammates. Nafees Cap was first climbed by a Belgian-Polish team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik and ...


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistans Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a [...]


New Everest Documentary Spawns Reality Series

Image from Google A new Everest documentary entitled 40 Days at Base Camp , made its debut at the Vancouver International Film Festival last week, and will headline the Banff Mountain Film Festival next week. By all accounts, it is a gripping look at what happens on the mountain during a typical climbing season. Evidently, the film must be something special, as filmmaker Dianne Whelan has already been commissioned to return to Everest next spring to shoot an 8-part reality series on the North Side of the mountain. The show


Friends, places, actions... and smiles. Always.

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-10-19 I haven't written since a very long time on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life. But nothing super exciting. Hum... I should not say that. All depends on what someone put behind the word "exciting". Climbing hard routes ? Then for sure I did nothing "exciting" since I was injured. Doing what I love ? Then I did a lot of "exciting" things... even injured ;) I realized the fact I was injured and I can not climb the way I would like to was not a reason for not ...


Video: Through The Khumbu Icefall

Image from Google If you ask any climber on the South Side of Everest what the scariest part of the mountain is, most will invariably say that it is the Khumbu Icefall. Ironically enough, this portion of the climb is actually located at relatively low altitude, sitting just above Base Camp. The Icefall is created by the Khumbu Glacier, which begins breaking apart on this section of the mountain. The result, is rather large crevasses that must be negotiated by the climbers in their way up to Camp 1. In order to cross those


The South Side of Paradise

Chamonix saw some grim snowy weather last week, so I set off with Dan in search of dry Alpine rock on the south side of the Gran Paradiso national park. Just 2.5 hrs from cham, this is a wild corner of the Alps with loads of flawless granite in the main valley, and some great [...]


Everest 2011 Stats

Image from Google The 2011 spring climbing season on Everest may be long over, but there are still some interesting facts about the various climbs on the mountain that are coming to light. This article , from The Economic Times , shares some of the numbers from this past spring as passed along to them from Ang Tshering Sherpa, the outgoing president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association. According to the article, there were 156 climbers who went to the summit from the South Side of the mountain this past spring. Of those,


Ecrin Link Up - Glacier Noir

Report by Lindsay Griffin for the : On consecutive days French alpinists Yann Borgnet and Robin Revest linked three great north faces above the Glacier Noir in the Ecrins, the theme being to celebrate the achievements of one of the massif's most famous partnerships. The Glacier Noir has a wild ambience: there are no huts, few people, no mobile phone reception, the routes are hard and committing, and the descents long and far from straightforward. The south side of the...


Himalaya 2011: Wrapping Things Up

Image from Google While I was away in South America, the spring climbs pretty much wrapped up in the Himalaya. Now, the monsoon looms, and with its arrival, comes plenty of rain and wind, which will shut off the big peaks in Nepal and Tibet until the fall. And while the final weather window on Everest didn't last as long as was hoped, and many climbers had their dreams dashed, there were a few notable climbs that I wanted to highlight, even though it has been some time since they were completed. For starters, major ...