from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Paul Diffley captures the action from an airy filming position on the Longhope route. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5/6, Mucklehouse Wall I wrote this on the way home from our trip to Orkney, having had a great time. The final days were mostly spent gathering some really cool footage for our film about the Longhope route which we’ll prepare for the autumn. Ed Drummond revisiting St John’s Head. Photo Lukasz Warzecha For the last few days we also had a nice visit from Ed Drummond who stayed with us and walked back in to St John’s head to see his route again, 41 years after his original
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Hot Aches Productions
Yesterday at 20:40 Dave Macleod was sat on top of St John's Head having just completed the first ascent of Longhope Direct. The full route, at 500m, took Dave and And y just under 10 hours to complete. The Guillotine pitch - Lukasz Warzecha When asked about the grade, an elated Dave said that he isn't entirely sure just yet, but knows that it's definitely harder than Rhapsody (E11 7a), the route he climbed at Dumbarton Rock in 2006. Dave on Rhapsody - Hot Aches Productions Upon hearing the news, Jon Arran
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Hot Aches Productions
This year's major film project is about to commence. We are shortly heading to the island of Hoy with Dave Macleod and Andy Turner to film an ambitious ascent of the Long Hope Route on St John's Head. The Long Hope Route, Pic Dave MacLeod, Click to enlarge But first, a bit of history. The Long Hope Route was first climbed in 1970 by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill. They spent 7 days on the wall, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks, and several of the 23 pitches involved some aiding. A first free ascent was made
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Blair hits the Roaring Forties (E3 5c) on Mucklehouse Wall. The route would also have described the weather conditions at the time despite the sunshine A nice evening at Rackwick Bothy as we arrived… too late. Blair struggles to get his gear out of his rucksack without it blowing to Norway at the top of Mucklehouse Wall. The top of the old man of Hoy and most of St John’s Head behind in the cloud. "Just realising how much of a problem I have staying relaxed a lot of the time. I'm sat here in a ...
published: over 2 years ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Michael enjoying the St John’s head experience It’s been another journey of big ups and downs on Orkney over the past few days with Micheal. But every time I have a fantastic trip, regardless of results. Duly, the wind prevented us from even getting to the edge of the cliff when we arrived, but spending the day soaking up the atlantic ferocity provided much amazement at the forces of nature on display on this island. St john’s looking nearly as big and mean as it actually is. So with conditions near
published: over 2 years ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
St John’s Head, looking angry I made the journey back to Hoy, over Cuilags and across the plateau once again and uncoiled my ropes in mist and the ever present buffeting gale at the edge of the cliff. I threw a coil of rope into the mist, but it blew right back over at me. I watched the fulmars for a bit while I got ready to to a ‘bag rap’ to get over the edge in the wind. They were giving me the eye as they swooped past, wings pulled in tight in the mega updraught. No doubt wondering why I’d ...
published: over 2 years ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Working on the headwall cracks, Longhope Route, Hoy with the 7pm from Stromness ferry heading by far below. If you can’t see me, click on the pic to see it full size. Photos: Claire MacLeod Walking off the hill from Kentallen last week after doing Durorband with unexpected ease, I felt that feeling of lightness, fitness and a readiness to climb something really hard that I’ve not felt so strongly since before climbing Echo Wall. I can’t believe it’s been a year since I really felt this. For sure,
published: over 2 years ago
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from UKClimbing.com News
It wouldn't be right to have a Dave Birkett story without a Dave MacLeod report - they are after all only two of a handful of climbers operating at the cutting edge of trad climbing in the UK today. In the summer their passion and love for exploration takes hold and they can be guaranteed to be up to something exciting. Dave B has just repeated an E9 and established another last great in the Lakes, and Dave MacLeod is on the brink of something big....
published: over 2 years ago
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