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Postcards from Paradise - Green Climbers home

Can you see the Katana Lace up hiding in the picture? I promise it is there! Spot the Shoe... Photo - Caroline Ciavaldini I am lying on my back, half stuck inside a hole on this giant block of Swiss Cheese, trying to figure where to go next. I squeeze upwards, or is it sideways, limbs twisted and inching slowly... then finally, there it is; the next quickdraw! You would be forgiven I was caving, but no, this is just another strange and funky route in the mega roof of Pha Tam Kam, the newest discovery in


Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

Image from Google It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre , who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however,the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several


Aonach Mor

Image from Google Today Kenny and I changed plans last minute and had a leisurly start up to Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. As Kenny is my mentor for the MIC scheme, he wanted to show me around the crag looking at different ways of getting into the crag, moving around the bottom and looking after folk on the routes. We climbed both Left Twin (III,4) and Molar Canal (III) which were both very nice routes. The ice was quite variable, most of the moist snowpack from the last few days had firmed up with the dropping ...


Expedition Availability

Image from Google I hope everybody had a wonderful New Year's celebration. Talkeetna really does it up with fireworks (unregulated) going on everywhere. Despite temperatures staying well below zero everybody gets out and about to go to bonfires and watch fireworks. Here's the latest on availability for 2012 expeditions. EXPEDITIONS Denali West Buttress April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces ...


Lochnagar Friday

Shortly after midday the Corrie of Lochnagar from the col by Meikle Pap. Quite a bit more snow on the apron directly below the crag than there has been recently. Looking onto Eagle Ridge (centre) with Parallel A and B to the right. Not much evidence of ice buiding up. The temperature at the profie site at 900 metres today was plus 2 and cooling is forecast. Distant view to the North-West. Good cover high up on Ben Avon. Tap Test at the main profile site for the day. Easterly aspect. Significant amount of


Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Winter Climb Update: More Expeditions Head To Pakistan

Image from Google The Russian team attempting to climb K2 this winter will soon be joined in the Karakoram by a few other teams who are setting their sights on other big peaks in Pakistan. All told, there will soon be two teams on Gasherbrum I and two others on Nanga Parbat, all of whom will be attempting to notch first winter ascents on those mountains. A Polish squad led by Artur Hajzer is amongst those hoping to top out on GI this season. They team is now en route to the mountain, where they expect winds to be in excess


Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

Image from Google While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their


First Blood

Image from Google Recently my job as a climbing magazine editor has been particularly frustrating. Despite a rather late start to the winter season it seemed everyone was making up for lost time with a string of very tough sounding new routes and repeats of several of last years hardest routes. Finally just before Christmas I was able to stop reading about everyone else's fun and get some action myself. I hooked up with Greg Boswell and James Dunn hoping for a few days high standard adventure, unfortunately as soon as I ...


Warming up West of Glenshee

Visibiity was very poor today. Temperatures rose rapidly throughout the day. By mid afternoon temperatures were above freezing on the tops. At the profile site the top couple of centimetres were slush. Despite this on piste skiing at Glenshee still looked good with lots of happy customers.