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2012 Mugs Stump Grant Recipients

Image from Google 2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that


Antarctica 2011: Felicity Closes In On The Pole

Image from Google It was another productive weekend for the Antarctic skiers heading to the South Pole. The weather was generally good for the past few days, although some of the teams are now reporting a change once again, with high winds working against them, even as they close in on their destination. One of those skiers is Felicity Aston , who has now entered the last degree to the Pole and should be arriving at 90ºS in the next few days. It won't be an easy journey to that point however, as she reports very strong ...


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


Book Review: 10: Celebrating Ten Years of the Tour d'Afrique Bicycle Race and Expedition

Image from Google It has been nearly six years since I started writing this blog, and back in those early days I was still finding my voice and deciding what it exactly was that I wanted to write about. I knew that I loved travel and adventure, in all of its many forms, and I wanted to share that passion with anyone who might happen to wander by my little slice of the web. There were oh so many expeditions and travel options to be discovered along the way and continually came across a host of amazing things that I didn't


Standhardt's South Face At A Snail's Pace

Jorge Ackerman and Colin Haley climbed the first complete route up the south face of Cerro Standhardt (2730m) on December 3. The pair completed El Caracol (5.9 A1+ AI3 M4, 500m) in a twenty-five-hour push from the Norwegos hut. Cerro Standhardt is named after German photographer Ernst Standhardt, who documented Patagonia's mountains and people in the first half of the twentieth century. In 1977, after several attempts, British duo Brian Hall and John Whittle climbed to the base of the snow mushroom via the


Matterhorn North Face

The final three hundred metres. We were probably off-route, but the angle and the terrain meant that you could climb anywhere, albeit with a degree of trepidation. I was tired. I wouldnt say exhausted, as I know, through experience, just how far in to exhaustion it is possible to push. Still, the going was slow. [...]


Lost In Translation

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-10-30 Dani completing his project From the first moment that I stumbled under the arch and pretty much fell over at the scale I’ve wanted to climb a multi-pitch. The challenge is pretty obvious, to climb all the way up, the short hard routes on the side being hard, but relatively, short! Though not exactly short at all, it’s just this place is ridiculous! The Petzl heroes have put in an insane effort to put up a bunch of multi-pitch routes through the most ridiculous ...


La Sportiva Quantum: The Best Shoe for Any Terrain

I've long been a fan of La Sportiva shoes. My first rock climbing shoes were Sportivas, purchased in 1986 when I was 12 years old, and still in my garage. (No, I don't use them anymore, opting instead for the...


On lecture tour next week

Racked up for rigging the Longhope Route - more of Lukasz’ pictures of this route in my lectures next week. All of next week I’m travelling around doing talks each evening in a different part of the UK. Maybe I’ll see some of you?! Mostly I’ll be talking about the importance of taking on massive projects like the Long Hope route on Orkney. Big projects like that and a few other hard climbs I’ll show you involve a lot of doubt - you just don’t know if you’ve got enough to finally do them ...


Today's Testimonial Advanced Mountaineering

Image from Google "The course exceeded all expectations. The AMS staff are friendly and helpful. Our guides were world class and on top of their game! The course was challenging, enlightening and fun. I highly recommend this course to anyone who wants to expand their knowledge base and skill level. AMS is simply the best!" -M. Beckage, Advanced Mountaineering Course 2011 AMS Posh glacier kitchen in a snowstorm with rare raven feather. The Advanced Mountaineering Course provides experienced climbers the opportunity to learn